Albania, Himare to Saranda

After leaving Himare, we headed south to Saranda. The road initially went inland and we rejoined the coast by Llaman beach.  The next bay is Porto Palermo. Huffington Post ranked Porto Palermo first among 15 Undiscovered European Destinations for 2014. The area together with Llamani beach will be proclaimed a protected area holding the status of Protected Landscape by the Albanian Government [Wikipedia] . Llaman -

The area above Porto Palermo bay was/is occupied by a large military base. See more here.

It was interesting to see the hills covered in agave, these were planted during the rule of leader Enver Hoxha to prevent parachuters from landing.

The Porto Palermo Tunnel is claimed to be a submarine bunker built during Hoxha's time. Our guide Viktor told us that the key to the door is lost and no one knows if there are submarines still inside! See Wikipedia Porto Palermo Tunnel

Nowadays it is used for joint exercises with other countries such as the UK and USA.

In the middle of Porto Palermo bay is a small peninsula with Porto Palermo Castle. This is another castle said to have been built by Ali Pasha of Tepelen, for one of his mistresses. However it is more likely to have been built by the Venetians in the 1660s, though the stronghold walls and gates were built by Ali Pasha.

Painting of Lord Byron in the castle - he was friends with Ali.

Our next stop was at Borsch, where after a coffee we visited the local school. Borsch beach -

Further along the coast we stopped  near Kodra Lapidarit peak and walked to a viewpoint.

Praying mantis and a cricket -

Then it was back to Saranda.

We stayed slightly out of town in an area of new apartments and hotels. Not an area I would chose for a holiday. From the hotel -

That evening we went back up to Lekursi Castle for dinner and to see Saranda by night.

Next day we had a quick look at the ruins of a 5-6th c. synagogue and basilica.

Then we went out to Butrint World Heritage Site. After we had lunch in Ksamil, which is one of Albania's busiest tourist areas.

Mussel farms on the lake

Then it was back to Saranda in time to catch the ferry back to Corfu.

Albania, Fier to Vlore to Himare

After leaving Fier, we headed south towards Vlore.

The former dictator Enver Hoxha had around 700,000 bunkers built all over the country for defence. They can be seen everywhere. Many are just for one soldier, but this one we visited, which is now lived in by a man, was meant for 7 soldiers.

Artillery bunkers -

North of Vlores is the Nartes (Narta) lagoon and a salt factory. The lagoon drains to the sea and is situated within the boundaries of the Vjosa-Narta Protected Landscape. It is an important site for birds and plants.

There are 2 islands in the lagoon, one is connected by a wooden walkway and is home to a 13th. c. monastery.

Looking  back towards the monastery -

Vlore is an old capital of Albania, before the capital was moved to Tirana to be more central. The modern part of town is undergoing new developments. Sadly the palm trees are dying from a disease

We went to Flag's Square, the main plaza in Vlorë, dedicated to the Albanian Declaration of Independence. Independence Monument -

Muradie Mosque, built between 11th and 13th century -

We then went up a hill to see the view and the Baktashi temple, and then back down to the Museum of Independence, where we were filmed for Albanian TV - see separate blog. After we went to the modern esplanade for a coffee.

From Vlore we followed the coast to Orikum, where the road turns inland and goes up and over the mountains to Llogara National Park. We stopped for lunch at one of the highest points and it was cold and cloudy. Coming down the other side, the clouds lifted at times

We went through some small villages that are being restored by the PM

We then spent a couple of nights in Himare (Himara). The town has an ethnic Greek community. The beach was deserted in October

The next day we went up into the mountains behind the town. We went by jeep. For most of the way to Pilur, there is a brand new road just a few weeks old.

 Himare town -

A roadside shrine

Pilur is 700 m above sea level and sits on a bare mountain face at the start of plateau level. There are lovely views over the Riviera. It is described as the balcony over the coast. The village is apparently busy in the tourist season. The people are Greek Orthodox and date back to the 15th c. They keep animals as there is little arable land. We stopped in the village square for a coffee and sat under the old tree

 Lunch -

That evening we were lucky enough to have a 'private' performance by one of Albania's leading polyphonic singers, Katina Beleri. See more on my blog Albania polyphony.

The next day we visited Himare Castle

 Church in the castle -

From Himare we headed back south to Sarande.