THE STAR
Saturday October 18, 2003
Compact with history and beauty
BY LIZ PRICE
THE directions on the tourist leaflet said, “Go up the stairs with the 100 steps”. What it didn’t mention was the long ascending slope that followed all the steps, gently climbing to the top of the hill.
Luckily, it was a shady walk, and quite pretty with the lush vegetation. It was a peaceful retreat from the bustling town below. However, it is a bit unfair to call Sandakan bustling, as it is actually relatively quiet as towns go.
Located on the east coast of Sabah, Sandakan is the jumping off point for eco-tourism destinations such as the Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, Kinabatangan River, Danum Valley, Gomantong Cave, Turtle Islands National Park and many more.
The small compact town, consists of only about three blocks by four, so it is impossible to get lost.
According to the recent guidebooks and leaflets, there is no information office. But as I was walking around town on the first day, I happened to spot a familiar blue “I” sign. I followed this, and lo and behold, found an information office.
Inside, I met Elvina, who was very helpful and suggested lots of things to see and do – I didn’t realise that Sandakan and its surroundings had so much to offer. Elvina explained that the office wasn’t an official Tourism Malaysia one, but something that the townfolk had put together. They did a good job too, not just for the information offered but also for the tasteful décor and layout.
Armed with the Sandakan Heritage Trail leaflet, I set off on a walking tour of the town. First stop was the 100-year-old town mosque, Masjid Jamek, perched on a small hill overlooking the town.
After that was the William B. Pryer memorial. Pryer was an Englishman who founded Sandakan in 1879. He served as the first Resident of the East Coast after the initial settlement burnt down.
History buffs will be interested to know that Sandakan was made the capital of British North Borneo (the
pre-independence name for Sabah) in 1884. The British North Borneo Company ruled Sabah from 1881 to 1946. Sandakan remained the state’s capital until the Japanese invasion and subsequent
Allied bombing in 1945 which virtually destroyed the whole town.
One year later, the capital
was moved to a bigger town in the west coast – Jesselton – which is now called Kota Kinabalu.
Even earlier than that, Sandakan was ruled by the Sultan of Sulu from the Philippines in the 18th century. An Austrian acquired the lease from the Sultan in 1878, and this was later sold to Alfred Dent, a Hong Kong-based publisher. It was only later that William Pryer appeared on the scene.
Under his leadership, Sandakan prospered, especially in the hey day of timber boom, when it was said to have the world’s greatest concentration of millionaires. This was probably an exaggeration, but the region has always been renown for luxury delicacies such as sea cucumber and bird’s nests.
Today, Sandakan is a commercial centre at the entrance of a beautiful, island-studded bay. The docks and wharves are particularly busy as boats unload fish and other produce, and take away rattan, bird’s nests, timber, rubber, copra and palm oil.
Strolling around town, I kept forgetting where I was as I heard a variety of languages such as the Filipino Tagalog and Bahasa Indonesia, as well as the normal variety of Malaysian languages.
It was quite a cultural awakening and pleasant as no one hassled me and people were friendly without being a nuisance.
There are three small bus stations all within a stone’s throw of each other. Taxis are easily available as they are parked on all street corners, and I found the drivers to be quite polite and not at all pushy. Passenger ferries shuttle back and forth to Zamboanga in the Philippines.
But I digress from my walk.
From Pryer’s monument, I followed the signs and numbers painted on the ground and found myself at the bottom of the “100 steps”. It was worth the climb, as you get good views over the town and bay at the top.
Sandakan nestles between the waterfront and the steep escarpment I had just climbed. At the top I detoured to see the huge cemetery. I assumed it was a Chinese cemetery, but the leaflet said it was Japanese.
I then headed for the famous English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated in the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum. From 10am till midnight, visitors can enjoy food and drinks immersed in tranquil surroundings and enjoy the spectacular views over the bay.
You can even try your hand at croquet. Dating back to the 1800s, the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. Just next door to the restaurant is the Agnes Keith House.
This is a replica of the house used by the American author who lived there with her British husband Harry and their children from 1934 to 1942. It was here that she wrote her famous books, The Land Below the Wind, Three Came Home and White Man Returns.
The trail then descends down the hill and leads to a small Goddess of Mercy temple, and onto St Michael’s and All Angels Church. This quaint stone church is one of the few stone buildings in Sabah and Sarawak built in the 19th century.
Going further downhill brings you to the town field and the oldest temple, Sam Sing Kung.
The temple was constructed in 1885 for the Chinese from Guangdong province. The historical artefacts and plaques contain a wealth of information on the early history of Sandakan.
Next item on the itinerary was lunch. Sandakan abounds in eating places and bakeries, and caters for all palates. There are plenty of halal restaurants, as well as Chinese ones and seafood places too. Fruits seemed much cheaper and fresher than in Kuala Lumpur, so I binged on sweet rambutans and the like, which were all in season.
Having satisfied my stomach, I then boarded a local bus for Buli Sim Sim. This is a picturesque stilt village, where the Malay fishermen live, just 3km east of the town. From the main mosque at Buli Sim Sim, you get a good view over the village. I walked along the wooden bridges and plank walks, admiring the ornate houses and was wonderfully surprised to see several small sundry shops there.
At one point, I got out my camera to take a photo of some children and they screamed so loudly with delight that more children came running to join in the fun, while the adults all appeared from the houses to
see what was going on. I guess they don’t see too many Caucasians wandering around their village.
Not many tourists stay in Sandakan as they are all en route to the eco-tourism destinations, and those who do stay tend to go to the more upmarket hotel just outside town.
The surrounding area is a haven for wildlife lovers. The closest and best known attraction is the Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary. This is about 25km from Sandakan, and many tourists opt to stay in one of the several lodges in Sepilok rather than in town.
Turtle Islands National Park is an ideal place to relax and watch rare turtles laying eggs. The Kinabatangan River and Danum Valley Conservation Area are great places for nature lovers, providing a good place to spot animals as they go about their daily life.
Finally there is the Gomantong Cave, but that is another story?
Enjoy!!!
Showing posts with label sandakan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sandakan. Show all posts
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Sandakan's English tea house
Enjoying afternoon tea with scones and croquet in Sabah
Quintessentially British: (Top to Bottom) Sandakan's English Tea House and Restaurant serves tea and scones. The Agnes Keith House is a replica of the house used by the American authoress who wrote books on Borneo in the thirties and, no doubt, played croquet like these English expats. Pictures: Liz Price
Sunday, September 28, 2008
AFTERNOON tea of scones laden with jam and cream, washed down with tea served in bone china cups is quintessentially English. Included in this repast you could have delicately cut sandwiches, or an assortment of dainty cakes. And to complete the scene, afternoon tea could be served in the garden of a fine house, watching a game of croquet.
So when I found myself doing just this in a setting which even included the croquet, I had to keep reminding myself that I was in tropical Malaysia, and not in the grand garden of some country estate deep in the heart of rural England.
I even felt like a memsahib as waiters in crisp white shirts and black jackets greeted us at the gate and escorted us to a table in a gazebo. Like all good gazebos, this one had a fine view. We were able to look down onto the town of Sandakan across the bay and the Sulu Sea.
We were in the English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated on the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum, in Sandakan in Sabah. A fan provided enough breeze to make it pleasant sitting out in the heat of the tropical afternoon.
Having placed our orders, I went for a wander around the grounds. Firstly I went to see the peacock which had been making a lot of noise with his loud calls. He was a handsome male with an incredibly long tail, but I was told he had recently lost his mate and was rather dejected.
I went to have a look round the house. The outside area is used for dining, and inside is a bar and small lounge. The furniture looked original and was how I imagine houses would have been in colonial days.
Our tea arrived so I went back to the table to enjoy the scones whilst still warm. They were served with thick cream and jam. Whether you put the cream or the jam on first is entirely up to you, there seems to be no preferential etiquette in one way over the other.
The pleasant surroundings enhanced the taste of the scones, as it was such a tranquil atmosphere. It was hard to believe that a few hundred metres down the hill was the hustle and bustle of a small town.
One group started to play croquet. Dating back to the 1800s the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. There was the sound of each thwack as the wooden mallet hit the ball, then the sounds of laughter if the person missed the hoop or the ball veered off course.
Just next door to the Tea House is the Agnes Keith House. This is a replica of the house used by the American authoress who lived there with her family from 1934. It is here where she wrote her famous book The Land Below the Wind. She also wrote a couple of other books on their experiences in Borneo.
The house became home to Agnes and her family. She was married to Henry (also known as Harry) George Keith, who was the Conservator of Forests, and they had a son called George.
When the Japanese invaded Sandakan in 1942 the Keiths were imprisoned on a nearby island before being sent to Kuching in Sarawak. Harry returned to Sandakan in 1946 and it was another year before he was joined by his wife and son. However the original house was destroyed during the war, so the Keiths built a new house in a style similar to the old one, and named it Newlands. It was the first government permanent timber dwelling to be built after the Second World War.
When the Keiths left Sabah in 1952, the house was occupied by subsequent forestry officers, volunteers and staff. Although the Keiths never retuned to Sabah, the house was always referred to as Agnes Keith's House.
Today the house has been restored and turned into a heritage house, providing interesting insights to life during British North Borneo. It is furnished with a reproduction of colonial furniture and antiques. A gallery on the first floor tells the story of this remarkable woman, her books and her family.
The Brunei Times
So when I found myself doing just this in a setting which even included the croquet, I had to keep reminding myself that I was in tropical Malaysia, and not in the grand garden of some country estate deep in the heart of rural England.
I even felt like a memsahib as waiters in crisp white shirts and black jackets greeted us at the gate and escorted us to a table in a gazebo. Like all good gazebos, this one had a fine view. We were able to look down onto the town of Sandakan across the bay and the Sulu Sea.
We were in the English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated on the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum, in Sandakan in Sabah. A fan provided enough breeze to make it pleasant sitting out in the heat of the tropical afternoon.
Having placed our orders, I went for a wander around the grounds. Firstly I went to see the peacock which had been making a lot of noise with his loud calls. He was a handsome male with an incredibly long tail, but I was told he had recently lost his mate and was rather dejected.
I went to have a look round the house. The outside area is used for dining, and inside is a bar and small lounge. The furniture looked original and was how I imagine houses would have been in colonial days.
Our tea arrived so I went back to the table to enjoy the scones whilst still warm. They were served with thick cream and jam. Whether you put the cream or the jam on first is entirely up to you, there seems to be no preferential etiquette in one way over the other.
The pleasant surroundings enhanced the taste of the scones, as it was such a tranquil atmosphere. It was hard to believe that a few hundred metres down the hill was the hustle and bustle of a small town.
One group started to play croquet. Dating back to the 1800s the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. There was the sound of each thwack as the wooden mallet hit the ball, then the sounds of laughter if the person missed the hoop or the ball veered off course.
Just next door to the Tea House is the Agnes Keith House. This is a replica of the house used by the American authoress who lived there with her family from 1934. It is here where she wrote her famous book The Land Below the Wind. She also wrote a couple of other books on their experiences in Borneo.
The house became home to Agnes and her family. She was married to Henry (also known as Harry) George Keith, who was the Conservator of Forests, and they had a son called George.
When the Japanese invaded Sandakan in 1942 the Keiths were imprisoned on a nearby island before being sent to Kuching in Sarawak. Harry returned to Sandakan in 1946 and it was another year before he was joined by his wife and son. However the original house was destroyed during the war, so the Keiths built a new house in a style similar to the old one, and named it Newlands. It was the first government permanent timber dwelling to be built after the Second World War.
When the Keiths left Sabah in 1952, the house was occupied by subsequent forestry officers, volunteers and staff. Although the Keiths never retuned to Sabah, the house was always referred to as Agnes Keith's House.
Today the house has been restored and turned into a heritage house, providing interesting insights to life during British North Borneo. It is furnished with a reproduction of colonial furniture and antiques. A gallery on the first floor tells the story of this remarkable woman, her books and her family.
The Brunei Times
Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/travel/2008/09/28/enjoying_afternoon_tea_with_scones_and_croquet_in_sabah
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/travel/2008/09/28/enjoying_afternoon_tea_with_scones_and_croquet_in_sabah
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Sandakan, Sabah (BT)
Published on The Brunei Times
Sandakan, colonial capital of Sabah
Urban and jungle: Founded in 1879 by Resident William Pryer, Sandakan prospered, especially in the heyday of timber boom, when it was said to have the world's greatest concentration of millionaires. Picture: www.malaysiasite.nl
Liz Price
SANDAKAN
Saturday, October 20, 2007
THE directions on the tourist leaflet said "go up the stairs with the 100 steps". What it didn't mention was the long ascending slope that followed all the steps, gently climbing to the top of the hill. Luckily it was a shady walk, and quite pretty with the lush vegetation. It was a peaceful retreat from the bustling town below. However, it is a bit unfair to call Sandakan bustling, as it is actually relatively quiet as towns go.
Sandakan on the east coast of Sabah is the launching pad for eco-tourist destinations such as Sepilok orang utan sanctuary, Kinabatangan River and Danum Valley, Gomantong caves, Turtle Islands National Park etc. It is a small compact town, consisting of only about three blocks by four so it is impossible to get lost.
Armed with the Sandakan Heritage Trail leaflet, I set off on a walking tour of the town. First stop was the 100-year-old town mosque, Masjid Jamek, perched on a small hill overlooking the town.
Next stop was the William Pryer memorial. He was an Englishman who founded Sandakan in 1879. He served as the first Resident of the East Coast after the initial settlement burnt down. For history buffs, Sandakan was made the capital of British North Borneo (the pre-independence name for Sabah) in 1884. The British North Borneo Company ruled Sabah from 1881 to 1946. Sandakan remained the capital until the Japanese invasion and subsequent Allied bombing in 1945 which virtually destroyed the town. One year later the capital was moved to Jessleton, now called Kota Kinabalu.
Even earlier than that, Sandakan was ruled by the Sultan of Sulu from the Philippines in the 18th century. An Austrian acquired the lease from the Sultan in 1878, this was later sold to Alfred Dent a Hong Kong base publisher, and then William Pryer appeared on the scene. Sandakan prospered, especially in the heyday of timber boom, when it was said to have the world's greatest concentration of millionaires. This is probably an exaggeration, but the region has always been renown for luxury goods such as sea cucumbers and birds' nests.
Today Sandakan is a commercial centre at the entrance of a beautiful island studded bay. The docks and wharves are particularly busy as boats unload fish and other produce, and take away rattan, bird's nests, timber, rubber, copra and palm oil. Strolling around town, I kept forgetting where I was as I heard a variety of languages such as Filipino and Indonesian, as well as the normal variety of Malaysian languages. It was quite a cultural awakening and pleasant as no one hassled me, and people were friendly without being a nuisance.
There are three small bus stations all within a stone's throw of each other. Taxis are easily available, they are parked on all street corners, and I found the drivers to be quite polite and not at all pushy in wanting your custom. Passenger ferries shuttle back and forth to Zamboanga in the Philippines.
But I digress from my walk. From Pryer's monument I followed the signs and numbers painted on the ground and found myself at the bottom of the "100 steps". It was worth the climb as from the top are good views over the town and bay. Sandakan nestles between the waterfront and the steep escarpment which I was just climbing. At the top I detoured to see the huge cemetery. I assumed it was a Chinese cemetery, but the leaflet said it was Japanese.
I then headed for the English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated in the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum. From 10 am till midnight you can enjoy food and drinks immersed in tranquil surroundings and enjoying the spectacular views over the bay. You can even try your hand at croquet. Dating back to the 1800's the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. Just next door is the Agnes Keith House. This is a replica of the house used by the American authoress who lived there with her family from 1934-1942. It is here where she wrote her famous book The Land Below the Wind. She also wrote a couple of other books on their experiences in Borneo.
The trail then descends downhill and leads to a small Goddess of Mercy temple, and onto St Michael's and All Angels church. This quaint stone church is one of the few stone buildings in East Malaysia, built in the 19th century. Going further downhill brings you to the town padang and the oldest temple, Sam Sing Kung. It was constructed in 1885 for the Chinese from Guangdong province. Historical artifacts and plaques contain a wealth of information on the early history of Sandakan.
Next item on the itinerary was lunch. Sandakan abounds in eating places and bakeries, and caters for all palates: there are plenty of halal restaurants, as well as Chinese ones and seafood places. Fruits seemed cheaper and fresher than in KL, so I binged on rambutans and the like, all in season.
After a good meal I boarded a local bus for Buli Sim Sim. This is a picturesque stilt village, where the Malay fishermen live, just 3km east of the town. From the main mosque at Sim Sim you get a good view over the village. I walked along the wooden bridges and plankwalks, admiring the ornate houses and was surprised to see several small sundry shops. At one point I got out my camera to take a photo of some kids and they screamed so loudly with their delight that lots more kids came running to join in the fun, whilst the adults all appeared from the houses to see what on earth was going on. I guess they don't see too many mat sallehs wandering around their village.
Tourists tend not to linger in Sandakan as they are all on route to the eco-destinations. The surrounding area is a haven for wildlife lovers. The closest and best known attraction is Sepilok orang utan sanctuary, about 25km from Sandakan.
Turtle Islands National Park is an ideal place to relax and watch rare turtles laying their eggs. The Sungai Kinabatangan and Danum Valley Conservation Area are great places for general nature lovers, providing a good place to spot animals as they go about its daily life. There are various tour companies based in Sandakan who run trips to these places. Finally there are the Gomantong Caves, but that is another story.
The Brunei Times
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/life/2007/10/20/sandakan_colonial_capital_of_sabah
Sandakan, colonial capital of Sabah
Urban and jungle: Founded in 1879 by Resident William Pryer, Sandakan prospered, especially in the heyday of timber boom, when it was said to have the world's greatest concentration of millionaires. Picture: www.malaysiasite.nl
Liz Price
SANDAKAN
Saturday, October 20, 2007
THE directions on the tourist leaflet said "go up the stairs with the 100 steps". What it didn't mention was the long ascending slope that followed all the steps, gently climbing to the top of the hill. Luckily it was a shady walk, and quite pretty with the lush vegetation. It was a peaceful retreat from the bustling town below. However, it is a bit unfair to call Sandakan bustling, as it is actually relatively quiet as towns go.
Sandakan on the east coast of Sabah is the launching pad for eco-tourist destinations such as Sepilok orang utan sanctuary, Kinabatangan River and Danum Valley, Gomantong caves, Turtle Islands National Park etc. It is a small compact town, consisting of only about three blocks by four so it is impossible to get lost.
Armed with the Sandakan Heritage Trail leaflet, I set off on a walking tour of the town. First stop was the 100-year-old town mosque, Masjid Jamek, perched on a small hill overlooking the town.
Next stop was the William Pryer memorial. He was an Englishman who founded Sandakan in 1879. He served as the first Resident of the East Coast after the initial settlement burnt down. For history buffs, Sandakan was made the capital of British North Borneo (the pre-independence name for Sabah) in 1884. The British North Borneo Company ruled Sabah from 1881 to 1946. Sandakan remained the capital until the Japanese invasion and subsequent Allied bombing in 1945 which virtually destroyed the town. One year later the capital was moved to Jessleton, now called Kota Kinabalu.
Even earlier than that, Sandakan was ruled by the Sultan of Sulu from the Philippines in the 18th century. An Austrian acquired the lease from the Sultan in 1878, this was later sold to Alfred Dent a Hong Kong base publisher, and then William Pryer appeared on the scene. Sandakan prospered, especially in the heyday of timber boom, when it was said to have the world's greatest concentration of millionaires. This is probably an exaggeration, but the region has always been renown for luxury goods such as sea cucumbers and birds' nests.
Today Sandakan is a commercial centre at the entrance of a beautiful island studded bay. The docks and wharves are particularly busy as boats unload fish and other produce, and take away rattan, bird's nests, timber, rubber, copra and palm oil. Strolling around town, I kept forgetting where I was as I heard a variety of languages such as Filipino and Indonesian, as well as the normal variety of Malaysian languages. It was quite a cultural awakening and pleasant as no one hassled me, and people were friendly without being a nuisance.
There are three small bus stations all within a stone's throw of each other. Taxis are easily available, they are parked on all street corners, and I found the drivers to be quite polite and not at all pushy in wanting your custom. Passenger ferries shuttle back and forth to Zamboanga in the Philippines.
But I digress from my walk. From Pryer's monument I followed the signs and numbers painted on the ground and found myself at the bottom of the "100 steps". It was worth the climb as from the top are good views over the town and bay. Sandakan nestles between the waterfront and the steep escarpment which I was just climbing. At the top I detoured to see the huge cemetery. I assumed it was a Chinese cemetery, but the leaflet said it was Japanese.
I then headed for the English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated in the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum. From 10 am till midnight you can enjoy food and drinks immersed in tranquil surroundings and enjoying the spectacular views over the bay. You can even try your hand at croquet. Dating back to the 1800's the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. Just next door is the Agnes Keith House. This is a replica of the house used by the American authoress who lived there with her family from 1934-1942. It is here where she wrote her famous book The Land Below the Wind. She also wrote a couple of other books on their experiences in Borneo.
The trail then descends downhill and leads to a small Goddess of Mercy temple, and onto St Michael's and All Angels church. This quaint stone church is one of the few stone buildings in East Malaysia, built in the 19th century. Going further downhill brings you to the town padang and the oldest temple, Sam Sing Kung. It was constructed in 1885 for the Chinese from Guangdong province. Historical artifacts and plaques contain a wealth of information on the early history of Sandakan.
Next item on the itinerary was lunch. Sandakan abounds in eating places and bakeries, and caters for all palates: there are plenty of halal restaurants, as well as Chinese ones and seafood places. Fruits seemed cheaper and fresher than in KL, so I binged on rambutans and the like, all in season.
After a good meal I boarded a local bus for Buli Sim Sim. This is a picturesque stilt village, where the Malay fishermen live, just 3km east of the town. From the main mosque at Sim Sim you get a good view over the village. I walked along the wooden bridges and plankwalks, admiring the ornate houses and was surprised to see several small sundry shops. At one point I got out my camera to take a photo of some kids and they screamed so loudly with their delight that lots more kids came running to join in the fun, whilst the adults all appeared from the houses to see what on earth was going on. I guess they don't see too many mat sallehs wandering around their village.
Tourists tend not to linger in Sandakan as they are all on route to the eco-destinations. The surrounding area is a haven for wildlife lovers. The closest and best known attraction is Sepilok orang utan sanctuary, about 25km from Sandakan.
Turtle Islands National Park is an ideal place to relax and watch rare turtles laying their eggs. The Sungai Kinabatangan and Danum Valley Conservation Area are great places for general nature lovers, providing a good place to spot animals as they go about its daily life. There are various tour companies based in Sandakan who run trips to these places. Finally there are the Gomantong Caves, but that is another story.
The Brunei Times
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/life/2007/10/20/sandakan_colonial_capital_of_sabah
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