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Showing posts with label isaan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label isaan. Show all posts

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Autobacs rally 2004 Thailand Laos

THE STAR
Saturday October 23, 2004
Mother of a rally

[also stolen and published on World News]

STORY AND PICTURES BY LIZ PRICE

FORTY-FOUR cars started the 9th Autobacs Asia Cross Country Rally in August from Bangkok to Laos and back, but the numbers dwindled and only 35 managed to cross the finishing line seven days later.

Inevitably, some succumbed to the rigours of the rough terrain. Several cars rolled; others got firmly stuck in mud whilst some had mechanical problems. The route had been designed to pit man and machine against the environment, and this it succeeded in doing.

It was a struggle against rocks, mud, rivers and jungle.

The event took place from August 7 to 13, a seven-day drive that included nine off-road special sections (SS) designed to test the drivers.

The 44 teams came from Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Korea, Taiwan and Japan. In addition, there were the support cars, service crews, marshals and media.

Altogether there were more than 100 cars carrying some 220 personnel.


Kicking up the dust at the 9th Autobacs Asia Cross Country Rally.

The route covered a demanding 2,700km, 900km of which was on nine SS’s. These negotiated mountains, rivers, agricultural land, and rough tracks with steep inclines and rocky descents. The conditions ranged from plenty of mud to dry and dusty, but all demanded technical driving. The weather before and during the rally was rather wet and, on one occasion, rising water meant the route had to be altered. Other SS’s had to be cut short due to adverse conditions. The 2004 rally was a tough one all right.

The cars all came under the T2 class, which meant they conformed to the standard set by the Federation Internationale de Automobile (FIA). Car manufacturers included Toyota, Mitsubishi, Isuzu, Nissan and Suzuki. Some looked like regular cars you see on the street, others were obviously customised. All were fitted with anti-roll bars and other requisite safety features.

Looking inside the cars, I was surprised by the sparseness – all unnecessary features and luxury items had been removed. Drivers and co-drivers had to wear helmets. Team Malaysia consisted of six cars, although one was a joint Singapore-Malaysian car.

The Ho brothers from Kuala Lumpur were no strangers to the Autobacs rally. In 2002 they placed second in the T2 class. Last year they came in 19th overall, but this year they were unable to finish in their Toyota Hilux Tiger. The other five Malaysian teams were making their first appearance in the rally.

Day One saw the entire convoy assemble outside the Grand Palace in Bangkok. Luckily the city’s notorious traffic jams were not a problem that day. At 7pm, after a short ceremony, the first car stood on the podium and was flagged off amidst much fanfare.

The other cars followed and thus began the 480km drive to Phetchabun in North-east Thailand. It was a straightforward drive, mostly along highways, and the first cars reached the Kosit Hill Hotel around 11.30pm.

Day Two dawned very early. I didn’t realise rally drivers had such early starts. We were up most mornings before 6am, sometimes even before 5am.

It was quite an effort to force down a large breakfast at such unearthly hours. But I knew I had to fill up my stomach or risk going hungry later. I was in a media car and we spent our days dashing round trying to find strategic places on the SS’s to get good photo opportunities. This meant a lot of off-road driving. It was a good thing we were being driven around.

Our driver was Suthipan, a rally co-driver himself. He had no qualms about tackling really rough terrains. In fact, he seemed to revel in the particularly muddy sections.

The first SS of this year’s rally covered mountainous terrain on narrow jungle tracks.

It was certainly the most difficult for the support and media cars to access as the route involved a very muddy section and some very rough tracks. SS2 in the afternoon was a faster route through agricultural land, as well as sections up and down mountainous areas with many creeks.

On Day Three we left Phetchabun and headed for Nong Khai on the Mekong River. The morning’s SS3 was a combination of mountain, river and muddy terrain. SS4 was set in the Switzerland of North-eastern Thailand, a scenic area with mountains in Loei province.

This was the day when the combination of mud and other obstacles proved too much for the rally cars, resulting in both SS’s of the day being cancelled. Many cars got stuck in the mud, a traffic jam right here in the backwaters!

Meanwhile the press people congregated in a small hamlet, along with the villagers, waiting in vain by a brown river. When a small herd of cows crossed the river, we all took photos to relieve the boredom.

Finally, after a long while, we heard the distinctive roar of a rally car approaching, and everyone ran to obtain a good viewpoint.

The villagers cheered as the car appeared and splashed through the river. Only a few cars appeared, and it was at least half an hour before the next batch arrived. Then it seemed that all the remaining cars appeared together, lined up in single file down to the water’s edge. The villagers were certainly enthusiastic in their cheering as they urged the cars through the water.

Day Four saw the entire convoy cross the border into Laos via the Friendship Bridge near Vientiane. Whilst waiting for all the cars to enter, we went crazy taking photos of everything. There was a group of Laotian police, and they were willing though bemused to have their photos taken with us. They were game to let me straddle a police motorbike and take photos.

We then drove through Vientiane the capital and along a rough track following the mighty Mekong River westwards. Some of the drivers kept forgetting they had to drive on the right in Laos.

The SS proved a bit problematic as the car that checked the route couldn’t cross a swollen river. So plans had to be changed. This meant a long delay. And the resulting SS took place mostly on dusty, dirt tracks. But the villagers were enthusiastic and we had an enormous crowd watching.

Day Five saw the convoy returning to Thailand for the longest SS, which covered 188km through two provinces, Udon Thani and Khon Kaen. A lot of the route was on village tracks and through agricultural land, with some fast sections.

This meant we had the earliest finish of any rally day, and reached the Sofitel Hotel in Khon Kaen by afternoon. Most of the rally cars went to the car wash for a well-deserved clean-up – although I couldn’t really see the point as they would soon get plastered in mud and dust the next day.

Meanwhile many of the personnel took advantage of the nearby shopping centre, Internet cafes, bars, etc. It was our only chance during the rally for such luxuries.

Day Six took the competitors through Chaiyaphum province and Nakon Ratchasima province. That night we stayed on the edge of Khao Noi National Park, Thailand’s oldest.

On Day Seven, the last day, we drove from the hotel through the National Park towards Chacheong, with our only spectators at that early hour being a few monkeys on the roadside. After the SS everyone headed for Bangkok and the podium finish in the National Stadium.

The results

First, second and third placings were won by teams from Thailand, with a Japanese car coming fourth. Positions five to 10 were also swept by the Thai teams.

The Ho brothers did not finish. The other Malaysian cars fared better, finishing 26th, 27th and 31st, while the Singapore-Malaysia car took 33rd spot. One other car did not finish, having not started the fifth day.

This year there was an all-ladies team again, a Mitsubishi Strada driven by Ray Itoh of Japan with co-driver Jia-Yeng Sheng from Taiwan. They started the rally in 12th place and finished 17th. Malaysia had one husband-and-wife team, Teh Chin Seen and Siew Sook Mei, and they did well in their Isuzu Trooper.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Isaan area of Thailand

Published on The Brunei Times (http://www.bt.com.bn/en)

Venturing into the heart of Northeastern Thailand

Isaan country: A woman weaving silk. Picture: BT/Liz Price

Sunday, October 26, 2008

THE village street consisted of about 10 houses and yet there was a hive of activity quietly taking place. Women were going about their daily chores, some were making handicrafts. Animals lazed around. The men were conspicuous by their absence. Maybe they were working in the fields although from what we had seen earlier, it seemed to be mostly women who were planting rice and attending to the corn. The men were sitting on the tractors watching!

This area of Khon Kaen is in the heart of Isaan country. Isaan is a general term for northeastern Thailand, from the Sanskrit name for the medieval kingdom Isana, which encompassed parts of Cambodia and northeastern Thailand. The area is less developed than the rest of Thailand and has comparatively few tourists. There are many archaeological sites scattered around the 18 provinces which form this region, which is also famous for its silk and cotton.

The best silk in Thailand is said to come from the northeast. There are several silk weaving towns and the finished products are cheaper than in other parts of Thailand. Many of the rural villages have cottage industries and we stopped at one to watch the weaving process.

One lady was spinning the cotton, teasing out the knotty strands and winding them neatly onto a large spool. Although the cotton is still grown locally, and silk still harvested from the silkworm cocoons, much of the materials used nowadays are bought from the town of Loei. Other ladies were weaving the yarn on looms. The white cotton thread was wound around the large framework of the loom, and coloured yarn was woven in according to the pattern. It was a laborious process requiring much patience and concentration. I was surprised to see one lady using green string to form the pattern of her material. This looked like the normal plastic string used so commonly in Asia and I imagined this would give a rough feel to the finished product.

There are actually two methods, one is the tie-dye, and the other is ikat in which the cotton is tie-dyed before the weaving. Many of the ladies wear the traditional skirts and blouses as part of their everyday attire. It reminded me of the Indonesian ikat. Most common is the geometric, diamond-grid pattern. Some women were laying out chillies to dry in the sun; others were attending to the livestock which were relaxing under the stilted houses. It was all very peaceful. The children were obviously at school as there were none to be seen.

One villager came out with some sticky rice wrapped in leaves for us to try. I enjoy trying the rice packets in Thailand as you never know what will be inside, sometimes it is sweet, and sometimes it is savoury, so it's a pot luck affair. We wandered down to the nearby river and it was quite busy with traffic, mostly of the non-vehicular kind.

White ducks were swimming, paddling quite hard in an effort not to get swept downstream. The river was swollen from rain, and the water was brown, so I wondered how the ducks stayed white; I imagined the muddy water would stain them!

Ladies were crossing the river with empty baskets on their way to the fields. A man came to the water's edge with a small herd of cows. At first the cows looked dubious about entering the water, they obviously knew it was deeper than usual, and were unsure of their footing.

The lead one was persuaded into the swirling water and the rest followed suit. They looked quite comical swimming diagonally against the current. Next to entertain us was a tractor with a few workers aboard. The tractors in this part of Thailand consist of a wooden platform which forms the trailer body, and two to three metres long handles lead to the tractor with the engine. It reminded me of the long tailed boats so commonly seen in Thailand. We were in the heart of farming country.

By now it was time for lunch. The Isaan culture has good food, known for its pungency and choice of ingredients, the specialities being chicken and sausage. We stopped at a series of roadside stalls, which were all selling spicy chicken. The chicken pieces are flattened and stuck onto bamboo skewers and grilled by the roadside. One enterprising lady had some skewered pieces of chicken and was standing at the roadside waving her wares to entice passing motorists. It worked, because we stopped. The chicken looked no different from the chicken sold at street stalls all over Thailand, but the taste was good. We ate it with glutinous rice and chilli sauce as an accompaniment.

Later that day we tried the som-tam, a spicy salad made with grated papaya, lime juice, garlic, fish sauce and fresh chillies. As the combination of tastes hit the palate, it is a bit of a shock and makes the mouth tingle, but soon you realise how delicious it is. That afternoon we stopped at Tham Erawan, a famous cave off the Wang Saphung to Udon Thani road.

You can clearly see the cave from several kilometres away. A large seated Buddha sits in the entrance, which is high up the cliff face. Tham Erawan is one of the most famous caves in this area.

About 600 steps lead up to the cave. After much huffing and puffing I reached the entrance with the huge sitting Buddha which gazes out over the plains and across to the other limestone hills in the distance. The cave is huge, there were a few very large stalagmites, and the roof was some 40m above my head.

Luckily there was some electric lighting as I had stupidly left my torch in the car. It was worth the effort of the climb as the cave size was so impressive.

After we left the cave there was monsoon rain and we were treated to a spectacular sight of a double rainbow.

There were two rainbows, side by side. It was quite a spectacular end to our day in Isaan country.

The Brunei Times