Enjoy!!!
Showing posts with label sabah. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sabah. Show all posts
Saturday, November 16, 2013
Maliau Basin to be closed
I was lucky enough to be able to go to Maliau Basin in 2007. It is described as the lost
world of Sabah and was only found in the 1980s.
Now according to the Star, 15 Nov 2013, it will be closed to everyone for 50 years.
However the article is not really clear. It says "The Maliau Basin will not be touched
for another 50 years".
“This area will remain out of bounds to anyone – including our rangers – until the expiry
of the 50-year commitment,”.
But then it talks about 10 year plans and that "under the next plan, more intensive
research in the area would be carried out, as the first plan had focused on auditing the
area and placing basic infrastructure facilities. " This next plan is the second plan,
from 2014 to 2023.
The facilities already installed include camps, trails, bridges, observation towers, a
skybridge and a reception and information building.
And the last sentence says "Keen visitors must obtain permission to enter the Maliau
Basin in advance from Yayasan Sabah."
I found the whole article to be unclear.
------------
See my 2nd blog on Maliau, which was published on Wild Asia.
-------------
Thursday, October 25, 2012
Sg Kinabatangan’s wild world - Star 2003
THE STAR
Saturday August 23, 2003
[Also published on All Malaysia]
Sg Kinabatangan’s wild world
STORY & pictures by Liz Price
Elephants in Sabah.... what a sight!
As the boat approached the riverbank, I could see three grey boulders on top of the embankment. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw one of the boulders move. Then it developed ears and a trunk and I realised I was looking at an elephant – my first sighting of wild elephants in Sabah!
I grabbed my camera and jumped out of the boat for a closer look. It was quite a steep climb up the embankment and there were deep holes hidden by the long grass. When I arrived at the top, I was astounded to see not just three elephants, but a whole herd. It was a group of about 12 adults with their young.
They didn’t seem too concerned by our presence and continued to feed on the long grass, although a couple of adults were trumpeting for a while. I took photos in quick succession expecting the animals to move off, but they stayed put. I saw a smaller group at the far end of the grassy meadow, and another group walking through the nearby woods.
Macaques feasting on fruit.
It all seemed a bit surreal. I half expected to see circus tents in the background. I have only seen a wild elephant once in Malaysia, and that was in Taman Negara, when I was alone and about two days’ walk from Park HQ. At the time, I was terrified and turned tail and ran, without even taking a photo.
So to see a whole herd at close range was just amazing
There are only two species of elephants worldwide, the African and Asian. The African is by far the bigger of the two. These Asian elephants in Sabah seemed surprisingly small compared to the huge creatures I had seen in South Africa. With the Asian elephants, the tusks of females and young males are rarely visible, but some large males have tusks up to one metre long. Their ears are also smaller than their African cousins.
The elephant is not indigenous to Borneo and no one knows for sure how it got there. There are various theories; some say they are the descendants of tributes presented to the Sultan of Brunei. Others say they were brought to Brunei by the British Borneo Company to help with the logging activities. But records show the elephants have been there for at least a century, i.e. before Europeans settled in Sabah and well before commercial logging started. But however they got there, they are surviving and there are now more elephants in Sabah than anywhere else in Malaysia. However they can only survive if their habitat is left intact.
We were on the Sg Kinabatangan, the longest river in Sabah. It flows for 560km from the mountains in the southwest through central Sabah before emptying into the Sulu Sea, south of Sandakan. Logging and clearing of land for plantations have spoilt some of the upper reaches, but the riverine forest near the coast is hemmed in with oil palm plantations, and contains an extraordinary variety of wildlife.
The famous proboscis monkeys unique to this part of the world.
I opted to go with Wildlife Expeditions, and was not disappointed. From Sandakan, we drove to Sukau, a journey of about three hours, part of which is along dusty roads. Although Sukau is marked on maps, it is a tiny place comprising few settlements along Sg Kinabatangan. There is little human settlement so the banks of the floodplain are rich with wildlife.
We took a boat upriver to the Sukau River Lodge, and from there went up a small tributary, the Sg Menanggol. Its naturally dark waters were quite a contrast to the murky brown of the Kinabatangan. Within five minutes of leaving the lodge, we came across a troop of proboscis monkeys. These are unique to Borneo, found along coastal mangroves and large riverine forests. The males have the characteristic large pendulous nose. The function of this enlarged nose is unknown, but it may be related to sexual selection by the females.
Apart from the nose, the colour is also distinctive as it looks as if these monkeys are wearing an orange jacket, grey tights with white underpants.
Our boat stopped right below the troop; it was a young bachelor group, so none of them sported a really big nose. Like the elephants, they also seemed relatively unconcerned by our presence, and nonchalantly continued eating. One of the larger ones sat with his back against a tree trunk, forearm resting on his leg which struck me as such a human pose. Suddenly one let loose a golden shower, then all the others followed suit!
Further up river, we spied several long-tailed macaques. It was nice to see these creatures in the real jungle, as many of their relatives have become urbanised and are commonly seen in city suburbs, in particular, at Batu Caves where they feed on human “junk food”.
I also saw a small family of pig-tailed macaques (beruk). Captive animals are trained to climb coconut trees. Sadly, we didn’t see any orang utans or crocodiles.
This area is a bird watchers paradise. I am not a birder, but I was happy to see hornbills, especially the white crowned, large kingfishers and several oriental darters or snake birds. My favourites were two Buffy Fish owls, one of which dived for a fish right in front of our boat.
There were several monitor lizards along the riverbanks, mostly juveniles. And we were lucky to spot a Waglers Pit Viper on a branch above the river. This is the same species of snake found in the snake temple in Penang.
It was quite an amazing afternoon. I never expected to see so much, in terms of numbers and variety of creatures. The highlight had to be the elephants.
The Kinabatangan remains one of the few places in Malaysia where you are guaranteed to see wildlife, and what better way to see it than through a river cruise. W
Wildlife Expeditions
Room 903, 9th floor
Wisma Khoo Siak Chiew
P.O. Box 3507
90739 Sandakan, Sabah
(089) 219 616, Fax : 089 214570
Saturday August 23, 2003
[Also published on All Malaysia]
Sg Kinabatangan’s wild world
STORY & pictures by Liz Price
Elephants in Sabah.... what a sight!
As the boat approached the riverbank, I could see three grey boulders on top of the embankment. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw one of the boulders move. Then it developed ears and a trunk and I realised I was looking at an elephant – my first sighting of wild elephants in Sabah!
I grabbed my camera and jumped out of the boat for a closer look. It was quite a steep climb up the embankment and there were deep holes hidden by the long grass. When I arrived at the top, I was astounded to see not just three elephants, but a whole herd. It was a group of about 12 adults with their young.
They didn’t seem too concerned by our presence and continued to feed on the long grass, although a couple of adults were trumpeting for a while. I took photos in quick succession expecting the animals to move off, but they stayed put. I saw a smaller group at the far end of the grassy meadow, and another group walking through the nearby woods.
Macaques feasting on fruit.
It all seemed a bit surreal. I half expected to see circus tents in the background. I have only seen a wild elephant once in Malaysia, and that was in Taman Negara, when I was alone and about two days’ walk from Park HQ. At the time, I was terrified and turned tail and ran, without even taking a photo.
So to see a whole herd at close range was just amazing
There are only two species of elephants worldwide, the African and Asian. The African is by far the bigger of the two. These Asian elephants in Sabah seemed surprisingly small compared to the huge creatures I had seen in South Africa. With the Asian elephants, the tusks of females and young males are rarely visible, but some large males have tusks up to one metre long. Their ears are also smaller than their African cousins.
The elephant is not indigenous to Borneo and no one knows for sure how it got there. There are various theories; some say they are the descendants of tributes presented to the Sultan of Brunei. Others say they were brought to Brunei by the British Borneo Company to help with the logging activities. But records show the elephants have been there for at least a century, i.e. before Europeans settled in Sabah and well before commercial logging started. But however they got there, they are surviving and there are now more elephants in Sabah than anywhere else in Malaysia. However they can only survive if their habitat is left intact.
We were on the Sg Kinabatangan, the longest river in Sabah. It flows for 560km from the mountains in the southwest through central Sabah before emptying into the Sulu Sea, south of Sandakan. Logging and clearing of land for plantations have spoilt some of the upper reaches, but the riverine forest near the coast is hemmed in with oil palm plantations, and contains an extraordinary variety of wildlife.
The famous proboscis monkeys unique to this part of the world.
I opted to go with Wildlife Expeditions, and was not disappointed. From Sandakan, we drove to Sukau, a journey of about three hours, part of which is along dusty roads. Although Sukau is marked on maps, it is a tiny place comprising few settlements along Sg Kinabatangan. There is little human settlement so the banks of the floodplain are rich with wildlife.
We took a boat upriver to the Sukau River Lodge, and from there went up a small tributary, the Sg Menanggol. Its naturally dark waters were quite a contrast to the murky brown of the Kinabatangan. Within five minutes of leaving the lodge, we came across a troop of proboscis monkeys. These are unique to Borneo, found along coastal mangroves and large riverine forests. The males have the characteristic large pendulous nose. The function of this enlarged nose is unknown, but it may be related to sexual selection by the females.
Apart from the nose, the colour is also distinctive as it looks as if these monkeys are wearing an orange jacket, grey tights with white underpants.
Our boat stopped right below the troop; it was a young bachelor group, so none of them sported a really big nose. Like the elephants, they also seemed relatively unconcerned by our presence, and nonchalantly continued eating. One of the larger ones sat with his back against a tree trunk, forearm resting on his leg which struck me as such a human pose. Suddenly one let loose a golden shower, then all the others followed suit!
Further up river, we spied several long-tailed macaques. It was nice to see these creatures in the real jungle, as many of their relatives have become urbanised and are commonly seen in city suburbs, in particular, at Batu Caves where they feed on human “junk food”.
I also saw a small family of pig-tailed macaques (beruk). Captive animals are trained to climb coconut trees. Sadly, we didn’t see any orang utans or crocodiles.
This area is a bird watchers paradise. I am not a birder, but I was happy to see hornbills, especially the white crowned, large kingfishers and several oriental darters or snake birds. My favourites were two Buffy Fish owls, one of which dived for a fish right in front of our boat.
There were several monitor lizards along the riverbanks, mostly juveniles. And we were lucky to spot a Waglers Pit Viper on a branch above the river. This is the same species of snake found in the snake temple in Penang.
It was quite an amazing afternoon. I never expected to see so much, in terms of numbers and variety of creatures. The highlight had to be the elephants.
The Kinabatangan remains one of the few places in Malaysia where you are guaranteed to see wildlife, and what better way to see it than through a river cruise. W
Wildlife Expeditions
Room 903, 9th floor
Wisma Khoo Siak Chiew
P.O. Box 3507
90739 Sandakan, Sabah
(089) 219 616, Fax : 089 214570
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Sandakan, Star 2003
THE STAR
Saturday October 18, 2003
Compact with history and beauty
BY LIZ PRICE
THE directions on the tourist leaflet said, “Go up the stairs with the 100 steps”. What it didn’t mention was the long ascending slope that followed all the steps, gently climbing to the top of the hill.
Luckily, it was a shady walk, and quite pretty with the lush vegetation. It was a peaceful retreat from the bustling town below. However, it is a bit unfair to call Sandakan bustling, as it is actually relatively quiet as towns go.
Located on the east coast of Sabah, Sandakan is the jumping off point for eco-tourism destinations such as the Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, Kinabatangan River, Danum Valley, Gomantong Cave, Turtle Islands National Park and many more.
The small compact town, consists of only about three blocks by four, so it is impossible to get lost.
According to the recent guidebooks and leaflets, there is no information office. But as I was walking around town on the first day, I happened to spot a familiar blue “I” sign. I followed this, and lo and behold, found an information office.
Inside, I met Elvina, who was very helpful and suggested lots of things to see and do – I didn’t realise that Sandakan and its surroundings had so much to offer. Elvina explained that the office wasn’t an official Tourism Malaysia one, but something that the townfolk had put together. They did a good job too, not just for the information offered but also for the tasteful décor and layout.
Armed with the Sandakan Heritage Trail leaflet, I set off on a walking tour of the town. First stop was the 100-year-old town mosque, Masjid Jamek, perched on a small hill overlooking the town.
After that was the William B. Pryer memorial. Pryer was an Englishman who founded Sandakan in 1879. He served as the first Resident of the East Coast after the initial settlement burnt down.
History buffs will be interested to know that Sandakan was made the capital of British North Borneo (the
pre-independence name for Sabah) in 1884. The British North Borneo Company ruled Sabah from 1881 to 1946. Sandakan remained the state’s capital until the Japanese invasion and subsequent
Allied bombing in 1945 which virtually destroyed the whole town.
One year later, the capital
was moved to a bigger town in the west coast – Jesselton – which is now called Kota Kinabalu.
Even earlier than that, Sandakan was ruled by the Sultan of Sulu from the Philippines in the 18th century. An Austrian acquired the lease from the Sultan in 1878, and this was later sold to Alfred Dent, a Hong Kong-based publisher. It was only later that William Pryer appeared on the scene.
Under his leadership, Sandakan prospered, especially in the hey day of timber boom, when it was said to have the world’s greatest concentration of millionaires. This was probably an exaggeration, but the region has always been renown for luxury delicacies such as sea cucumber and bird’s nests.
Today, Sandakan is a commercial centre at the entrance of a beautiful, island-studded bay. The docks and wharves are particularly busy as boats unload fish and other produce, and take away rattan, bird’s nests, timber, rubber, copra and palm oil.
Strolling around town, I kept forgetting where I was as I heard a variety of languages such as the Filipino Tagalog and Bahasa Indonesia, as well as the normal variety of Malaysian languages.
It was quite a cultural awakening and pleasant as no one hassled me and people were friendly without being a nuisance.
There are three small bus stations all within a stone’s throw of each other. Taxis are easily available as they are parked on all street corners, and I found the drivers to be quite polite and not at all pushy. Passenger ferries shuttle back and forth to Zamboanga in the Philippines.
But I digress from my walk.
From Pryer’s monument, I followed the signs and numbers painted on the ground and found myself at the bottom of the “100 steps”. It was worth the climb, as you get good views over the town and bay at the top.
Sandakan nestles between the waterfront and the steep escarpment I had just climbed. At the top I detoured to see the huge cemetery. I assumed it was a Chinese cemetery, but the leaflet said it was Japanese.
I then headed for the famous English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated in the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum. From 10am till midnight, visitors can enjoy food and drinks immersed in tranquil surroundings and enjoy the spectacular views over the bay.
You can even try your hand at croquet. Dating back to the 1800s, the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. Just next door to the restaurant is the Agnes Keith House.
This is a replica of the house used by the American author who lived there with her British husband Harry and their children from 1934 to 1942. It was here that she wrote her famous books, The Land Below the Wind, Three Came Home and White Man Returns.
The trail then descends down the hill and leads to a small Goddess of Mercy temple, and onto St Michael’s and All Angels Church. This quaint stone church is one of the few stone buildings in Sabah and Sarawak built in the 19th century.
Going further downhill brings you to the town field and the oldest temple, Sam Sing Kung.
The temple was constructed in 1885 for the Chinese from Guangdong province. The historical artefacts and plaques contain a wealth of information on the early history of Sandakan.
Next item on the itinerary was lunch. Sandakan abounds in eating places and bakeries, and caters for all palates. There are plenty of halal restaurants, as well as Chinese ones and seafood places too. Fruits seemed much cheaper and fresher than in Kuala Lumpur, so I binged on sweet rambutans and the like, which were all in season.
Having satisfied my stomach, I then boarded a local bus for Buli Sim Sim. This is a picturesque stilt village, where the Malay fishermen live, just 3km east of the town. From the main mosque at Buli Sim Sim, you get a good view over the village. I walked along the wooden bridges and plank walks, admiring the ornate houses and was wonderfully surprised to see several small sundry shops there.
At one point, I got out my camera to take a photo of some children and they screamed so loudly with delight that more children came running to join in the fun, while the adults all appeared from the houses to
see what was going on. I guess they don’t see too many Caucasians wandering around their village.
Not many tourists stay in Sandakan as they are all en route to the eco-tourism destinations, and those who do stay tend to go to the more upmarket hotel just outside town.
The surrounding area is a haven for wildlife lovers. The closest and best known attraction is the Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary. This is about 25km from Sandakan, and many tourists opt to stay in one of the several lodges in Sepilok rather than in town.
Turtle Islands National Park is an ideal place to relax and watch rare turtles laying eggs. The Kinabatangan River and Danum Valley Conservation Area are great places for nature lovers, providing a good place to spot animals as they go about their daily life.
Finally there is the Gomantong Cave, but that is another story?
Saturday October 18, 2003
Compact with history and beauty
BY LIZ PRICE
THE directions on the tourist leaflet said, “Go up the stairs with the 100 steps”. What it didn’t mention was the long ascending slope that followed all the steps, gently climbing to the top of the hill.
Luckily, it was a shady walk, and quite pretty with the lush vegetation. It was a peaceful retreat from the bustling town below. However, it is a bit unfair to call Sandakan bustling, as it is actually relatively quiet as towns go.
Located on the east coast of Sabah, Sandakan is the jumping off point for eco-tourism destinations such as the Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary, Kinabatangan River, Danum Valley, Gomantong Cave, Turtle Islands National Park and many more.
The small compact town, consists of only about three blocks by four, so it is impossible to get lost.
According to the recent guidebooks and leaflets, there is no information office. But as I was walking around town on the first day, I happened to spot a familiar blue “I” sign. I followed this, and lo and behold, found an information office.
Inside, I met Elvina, who was very helpful and suggested lots of things to see and do – I didn’t realise that Sandakan and its surroundings had so much to offer. Elvina explained that the office wasn’t an official Tourism Malaysia one, but something that the townfolk had put together. They did a good job too, not just for the information offered but also for the tasteful décor and layout.
Armed with the Sandakan Heritage Trail leaflet, I set off on a walking tour of the town. First stop was the 100-year-old town mosque, Masjid Jamek, perched on a small hill overlooking the town.
After that was the William B. Pryer memorial. Pryer was an Englishman who founded Sandakan in 1879. He served as the first Resident of the East Coast after the initial settlement burnt down.
History buffs will be interested to know that Sandakan was made the capital of British North Borneo (the
pre-independence name for Sabah) in 1884. The British North Borneo Company ruled Sabah from 1881 to 1946. Sandakan remained the state’s capital until the Japanese invasion and subsequent
Allied bombing in 1945 which virtually destroyed the whole town.
One year later, the capital
was moved to a bigger town in the west coast – Jesselton – which is now called Kota Kinabalu.
Even earlier than that, Sandakan was ruled by the Sultan of Sulu from the Philippines in the 18th century. An Austrian acquired the lease from the Sultan in 1878, and this was later sold to Alfred Dent, a Hong Kong-based publisher. It was only later that William Pryer appeared on the scene.
Under his leadership, Sandakan prospered, especially in the hey day of timber boom, when it was said to have the world’s greatest concentration of millionaires. This was probably an exaggeration, but the region has always been renown for luxury delicacies such as sea cucumber and bird’s nests.
Today, Sandakan is a commercial centre at the entrance of a beautiful, island-studded bay. The docks and wharves are particularly busy as boats unload fish and other produce, and take away rattan, bird’s nests, timber, rubber, copra and palm oil.
Strolling around town, I kept forgetting where I was as I heard a variety of languages such as the Filipino Tagalog and Bahasa Indonesia, as well as the normal variety of Malaysian languages.
It was quite a cultural awakening and pleasant as no one hassled me and people were friendly without being a nuisance.
There are three small bus stations all within a stone’s throw of each other. Taxis are easily available as they are parked on all street corners, and I found the drivers to be quite polite and not at all pushy. Passenger ferries shuttle back and forth to Zamboanga in the Philippines.
But I digress from my walk.
From Pryer’s monument, I followed the signs and numbers painted on the ground and found myself at the bottom of the “100 steps”. It was worth the climb, as you get good views over the town and bay at the top.
Sandakan nestles between the waterfront and the steep escarpment I had just climbed. At the top I detoured to see the huge cemetery. I assumed it was a Chinese cemetery, but the leaflet said it was Japanese.
I then headed for the famous English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated in the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum. From 10am till midnight, visitors can enjoy food and drinks immersed in tranquil surroundings and enjoy the spectacular views over the bay.
You can even try your hand at croquet. Dating back to the 1800s, the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. Just next door to the restaurant is the Agnes Keith House.
This is a replica of the house used by the American author who lived there with her British husband Harry and their children from 1934 to 1942. It was here that she wrote her famous books, The Land Below the Wind, Three Came Home and White Man Returns.
The trail then descends down the hill and leads to a small Goddess of Mercy temple, and onto St Michael’s and All Angels Church. This quaint stone church is one of the few stone buildings in Sabah and Sarawak built in the 19th century.
Going further downhill brings you to the town field and the oldest temple, Sam Sing Kung.
The temple was constructed in 1885 for the Chinese from Guangdong province. The historical artefacts and plaques contain a wealth of information on the early history of Sandakan.
Next item on the itinerary was lunch. Sandakan abounds in eating places and bakeries, and caters for all palates. There are plenty of halal restaurants, as well as Chinese ones and seafood places too. Fruits seemed much cheaper and fresher than in Kuala Lumpur, so I binged on sweet rambutans and the like, which were all in season.
Having satisfied my stomach, I then boarded a local bus for Buli Sim Sim. This is a picturesque stilt village, where the Malay fishermen live, just 3km east of the town. From the main mosque at Buli Sim Sim, you get a good view over the village. I walked along the wooden bridges and plank walks, admiring the ornate houses and was wonderfully surprised to see several small sundry shops there.
At one point, I got out my camera to take a photo of some children and they screamed so loudly with delight that more children came running to join in the fun, while the adults all appeared from the houses to
see what was going on. I guess they don’t see too many Caucasians wandering around their village.
Not many tourists stay in Sandakan as they are all en route to the eco-tourism destinations, and those who do stay tend to go to the more upmarket hotel just outside town.
The surrounding area is a haven for wildlife lovers. The closest and best known attraction is the Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary. This is about 25km from Sandakan, and many tourists opt to stay in one of the several lodges in Sepilok rather than in town.
Turtle Islands National Park is an ideal place to relax and watch rare turtles laying eggs. The Kinabatangan River and Danum Valley Conservation Area are great places for nature lovers, providing a good place to spot animals as they go about their daily life.
Finally there is the Gomantong Cave, but that is another story?
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Borneo pygmy elephants
Published on The Brunei Times (http://www.bt.com.bn/en)
Into the Kinabatangan jungle in search of Borneo pygmy elephants
In isolation: Borneo pygmy elephants in the wild.
Pictures: Liz Price
Pictures: Liz Price
Sunday, January 25, 2009
ON ONE of many visits to the national park, Taman Negara, in Peninsular Malaysia, I was really excited to see a solitary elephant in the wild. I was also quite scared to be so close to this huge pachyderm, as I was alone.
So you can imagine my delight when I went to the Kinabatangan River in Sabah, Borneo, and saw a whole herd of elephants. In fact we were able to get so close that we could see the wrinkles and hairs on their hide.
These were the Borneo pygmy elephants. Although elephants have been known in Sabah for some time, it was only in 2003 that it was reported they are possibly a subspecies of the Asian elephant.
There are different ideas about their origin on Borneo, and suggestion says that the elephants are a remnant population of a domesticated herd abandoned on the island by the Sultan of Sulu in the 17th century. Others say they were brought to Brunei by the British Borneo Company to help with the logging activities.
The elephants were known to be smaller than the normal elephants in Asia, but DNA analysis carried out in 2003 proved that the pygmy elephants were genetically distinct from other Asian elephants. They are likely to belong to a new subspecies.
The DNA evidence showed that these elephants were isolated about 300,000 years ago from their cousins on mainland Asia and Sumatra. During that period, they became smaller with relatively larger ears, longer tails and straighter tusks.
They are officially named as Borneo pygmy elephant, (Elephas maximus borneensis). Sadly they are already recognised as an endangered species, and although their population is not known, it is estimated to be less than 1,500. Most of these live in Sabah, in lowlands and valleys. They are endangered due to loss and fragmentation of habitat, poaching and culling for their ivory, and other body parts.
So I felt quite honoured to be able to see them at such close quarters. Not all tourists are so lucky. The elephants are migratory and need a huge area of natural habitat to live and breed. So the elephants are only in one place for a short time before moving on.
Quite often when tourists go to the banks of the Kinabatangan to look for the elephants, they are disappointed as these creatures are many miles away. The guide told us they are only seen about five to six times a year.
Normally they try to avoid humans, due to their shy nature. Due to the loss of their natural habitats, they have to pass near populated areas and plantations, and along the banks of the Kinabatangan.
The elephants have a gentle nature and don't seem to mind the presence of gawping tourists equipped with cameras. Although they are the same colour as the Asian elephants, the pygmies have longer tails and are very appealing with their babyish faces and rotund shape. Asian elephants are smaller than their African relatives.
Borneo pygmy elephants are forest herbivores. One adult can eat up to 150kg of vegetation per day, feeding mostly on species of palms, grasses and wild bananas.
They love durian and will roll the entire fruit including spikes in mud, then swallow it whole. They also appear to require supplementary minerals, which they obtain from salt licks.
Elephants live in a matriarchal society, led by a female in small groups of around eight individuals, although larger groups can be seen gathering in open feeding grounds, particularly on riverbanks.
Family groups consist of the females and immature males. Sometimes an adult male can be associated with a herd. When not in a herd, adult males usually remain solitary. They sometimes gather in small but temporary bull herds.
The group I saw consisted of about 15 animals and there were several babies with their mothers. There were four more further away, and yet another group in the woods in the distance.
Even though we made quite a noise scrambling up the river bank from the boat, the elephants stayed put and continued feeding although they did trumpet at our arrival.
The elephants need contact with other family groups to maintain genetic diversity for their evolution and survival. These animals live for up to 60 years in the wild and more than 80 years in captivity. One calf is born at a time and female Asian elephants have about seven calves in a lifetime.
This means they give birth about every four to six years if environmental conditions are favourable. The gestation period is between 19 to 22 months, almost two years, more than twice as long as human babies!
Soon after these pygmy elephants were declared to be a new species, some were captured by traders and were almost exported to zoos in China and Japan. Fortunately the authorities stepped in and banned the export of pygmy elephants.
These pachyderms will only survive as long as their habitat lasts. Large-scale agriculture is encroaching onto their territory as well as deforestation and development. Shrinking forests have also brought the elephants into more contact with people, increasing human-elephant conflict.
Let's hope that these animals, which are one of the last major discoveries in the animal world, will be able to survive and continue living successfully in Borneo.
The Brunei Times
So you can imagine my delight when I went to the Kinabatangan River in Sabah, Borneo, and saw a whole herd of elephants. In fact we were able to get so close that we could see the wrinkles and hairs on their hide.
These were the Borneo pygmy elephants. Although elephants have been known in Sabah for some time, it was only in 2003 that it was reported they are possibly a subspecies of the Asian elephant.
There are different ideas about their origin on Borneo, and suggestion says that the elephants are a remnant population of a domesticated herd abandoned on the island by the Sultan of Sulu in the 17th century. Others say they were brought to Brunei by the British Borneo Company to help with the logging activities.
The elephants were known to be smaller than the normal elephants in Asia, but DNA analysis carried out in 2003 proved that the pygmy elephants were genetically distinct from other Asian elephants. They are likely to belong to a new subspecies.
The DNA evidence showed that these elephants were isolated about 300,000 years ago from their cousins on mainland Asia and Sumatra. During that period, they became smaller with relatively larger ears, longer tails and straighter tusks.
They are officially named as Borneo pygmy elephant, (Elephas maximus borneensis). Sadly they are already recognised as an endangered species, and although their population is not known, it is estimated to be less than 1,500. Most of these live in Sabah, in lowlands and valleys. They are endangered due to loss and fragmentation of habitat, poaching and culling for their ivory, and other body parts.
So I felt quite honoured to be able to see them at such close quarters. Not all tourists are so lucky. The elephants are migratory and need a huge area of natural habitat to live and breed. So the elephants are only in one place for a short time before moving on.
Quite often when tourists go to the banks of the Kinabatangan to look for the elephants, they are disappointed as these creatures are many miles away. The guide told us they are only seen about five to six times a year.
Normally they try to avoid humans, due to their shy nature. Due to the loss of their natural habitats, they have to pass near populated areas and plantations, and along the banks of the Kinabatangan.
The elephants have a gentle nature and don't seem to mind the presence of gawping tourists equipped with cameras. Although they are the same colour as the Asian elephants, the pygmies have longer tails and are very appealing with their babyish faces and rotund shape. Asian elephants are smaller than their African relatives.
Borneo pygmy elephants are forest herbivores. One adult can eat up to 150kg of vegetation per day, feeding mostly on species of palms, grasses and wild bananas.
They love durian and will roll the entire fruit including spikes in mud, then swallow it whole. They also appear to require supplementary minerals, which they obtain from salt licks.
Elephants live in a matriarchal society, led by a female in small groups of around eight individuals, although larger groups can be seen gathering in open feeding grounds, particularly on riverbanks.
Family groups consist of the females and immature males. Sometimes an adult male can be associated with a herd. When not in a herd, adult males usually remain solitary. They sometimes gather in small but temporary bull herds.
The group I saw consisted of about 15 animals and there were several babies with their mothers. There were four more further away, and yet another group in the woods in the distance.
Even though we made quite a noise scrambling up the river bank from the boat, the elephants stayed put and continued feeding although they did trumpet at our arrival.
The elephants need contact with other family groups to maintain genetic diversity for their evolution and survival. These animals live for up to 60 years in the wild and more than 80 years in captivity. One calf is born at a time and female Asian elephants have about seven calves in a lifetime.
This means they give birth about every four to six years if environmental conditions are favourable. The gestation period is between 19 to 22 months, almost two years, more than twice as long as human babies!
Soon after these pygmy elephants were declared to be a new species, some were captured by traders and were almost exported to zoos in China and Japan. Fortunately the authorities stepped in and banned the export of pygmy elephants.
These pachyderms will only survive as long as their habitat lasts. Large-scale agriculture is encroaching onto their territory as well as deforestation and development. Shrinking forests have also brought the elephants into more contact with people, increasing human-elephant conflict.
Let's hope that these animals, which are one of the last major discoveries in the animal world, will be able to survive and continue living successfully in Borneo.
The Brunei Times
Wednesday, October 1, 2008
Sandakan's English tea house
Enjoying afternoon tea with scones and croquet in Sabah
Quintessentially British: (Top to Bottom) Sandakan's English Tea House and Restaurant serves tea and scones. The Agnes Keith House is a replica of the house used by the American authoress who wrote books on Borneo in the thirties and, no doubt, played croquet like these English expats. Pictures: Liz Price
Sunday, September 28, 2008
AFTERNOON tea of scones laden with jam and cream, washed down with tea served in bone china cups is quintessentially English. Included in this repast you could have delicately cut sandwiches, or an assortment of dainty cakes. And to complete the scene, afternoon tea could be served in the garden of a fine house, watching a game of croquet.
So when I found myself doing just this in a setting which even included the croquet, I had to keep reminding myself that I was in tropical Malaysia, and not in the grand garden of some country estate deep in the heart of rural England.
I even felt like a memsahib as waiters in crisp white shirts and black jackets greeted us at the gate and escorted us to a table in a gazebo. Like all good gazebos, this one had a fine view. We were able to look down onto the town of Sandakan across the bay and the Sulu Sea.
We were in the English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated on the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum, in Sandakan in Sabah. A fan provided enough breeze to make it pleasant sitting out in the heat of the tropical afternoon.
Having placed our orders, I went for a wander around the grounds. Firstly I went to see the peacock which had been making a lot of noise with his loud calls. He was a handsome male with an incredibly long tail, but I was told he had recently lost his mate and was rather dejected.
I went to have a look round the house. The outside area is used for dining, and inside is a bar and small lounge. The furniture looked original and was how I imagine houses would have been in colonial days.
Our tea arrived so I went back to the table to enjoy the scones whilst still warm. They were served with thick cream and jam. Whether you put the cream or the jam on first is entirely up to you, there seems to be no preferential etiquette in one way over the other.
The pleasant surroundings enhanced the taste of the scones, as it was such a tranquil atmosphere. It was hard to believe that a few hundred metres down the hill was the hustle and bustle of a small town.
One group started to play croquet. Dating back to the 1800s the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. There was the sound of each thwack as the wooden mallet hit the ball, then the sounds of laughter if the person missed the hoop or the ball veered off course.
Just next door to the Tea House is the Agnes Keith House. This is a replica of the house used by the American authoress who lived there with her family from 1934. It is here where she wrote her famous book The Land Below the Wind. She also wrote a couple of other books on their experiences in Borneo.
The house became home to Agnes and her family. She was married to Henry (also known as Harry) George Keith, who was the Conservator of Forests, and they had a son called George.
When the Japanese invaded Sandakan in 1942 the Keiths were imprisoned on a nearby island before being sent to Kuching in Sarawak. Harry returned to Sandakan in 1946 and it was another year before he was joined by his wife and son. However the original house was destroyed during the war, so the Keiths built a new house in a style similar to the old one, and named it Newlands. It was the first government permanent timber dwelling to be built after the Second World War.
When the Keiths left Sabah in 1952, the house was occupied by subsequent forestry officers, volunteers and staff. Although the Keiths never retuned to Sabah, the house was always referred to as Agnes Keith's House.
Today the house has been restored and turned into a heritage house, providing interesting insights to life during British North Borneo. It is furnished with a reproduction of colonial furniture and antiques. A gallery on the first floor tells the story of this remarkable woman, her books and her family.
The Brunei Times
So when I found myself doing just this in a setting which even included the croquet, I had to keep reminding myself that I was in tropical Malaysia, and not in the grand garden of some country estate deep in the heart of rural England.
I even felt like a memsahib as waiters in crisp white shirts and black jackets greeted us at the gate and escorted us to a table in a gazebo. Like all good gazebos, this one had a fine view. We were able to look down onto the town of Sandakan across the bay and the Sulu Sea.
We were in the English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated on the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum, in Sandakan in Sabah. A fan provided enough breeze to make it pleasant sitting out in the heat of the tropical afternoon.
Having placed our orders, I went for a wander around the grounds. Firstly I went to see the peacock which had been making a lot of noise with his loud calls. He was a handsome male with an incredibly long tail, but I was told he had recently lost his mate and was rather dejected.
I went to have a look round the house. The outside area is used for dining, and inside is a bar and small lounge. The furniture looked original and was how I imagine houses would have been in colonial days.
Our tea arrived so I went back to the table to enjoy the scones whilst still warm. They were served with thick cream and jam. Whether you put the cream or the jam on first is entirely up to you, there seems to be no preferential etiquette in one way over the other.
The pleasant surroundings enhanced the taste of the scones, as it was such a tranquil atmosphere. It was hard to believe that a few hundred metres down the hill was the hustle and bustle of a small town.
One group started to play croquet. Dating back to the 1800s the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. There was the sound of each thwack as the wooden mallet hit the ball, then the sounds of laughter if the person missed the hoop or the ball veered off course.
Just next door to the Tea House is the Agnes Keith House. This is a replica of the house used by the American authoress who lived there with her family from 1934. It is here where she wrote her famous book The Land Below the Wind. She also wrote a couple of other books on their experiences in Borneo.
The house became home to Agnes and her family. She was married to Henry (also known as Harry) George Keith, who was the Conservator of Forests, and they had a son called George.
When the Japanese invaded Sandakan in 1942 the Keiths were imprisoned on a nearby island before being sent to Kuching in Sarawak. Harry returned to Sandakan in 1946 and it was another year before he was joined by his wife and son. However the original house was destroyed during the war, so the Keiths built a new house in a style similar to the old one, and named it Newlands. It was the first government permanent timber dwelling to be built after the Second World War.
When the Keiths left Sabah in 1952, the house was occupied by subsequent forestry officers, volunteers and staff. Although the Keiths never retuned to Sabah, the house was always referred to as Agnes Keith's House.
Today the house has been restored and turned into a heritage house, providing interesting insights to life during British North Borneo. It is furnished with a reproduction of colonial furniture and antiques. A gallery on the first floor tells the story of this remarkable woman, her books and her family.
The Brunei Times
Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/travel/2008/09/28/enjoying_afternoon_tea_with_scones_and_croquet_in_sabah
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/travel/2008/09/28/enjoying_afternoon_tea_with_scones_and_croquet_in_sabah
Saturday, May 10, 2008
Danum Valley, Sabah
This was originally published in the Brunei Times, http://www.bt.com.bn/en/travel/2008/05/04/sabahs_lush_danum_valley_boasts_unique_flora_fauna
See also my Danum Album
© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission
See also my Danum Album
© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission
Sabah's lush Danum Valley boasts unique flora, fauna
Virgin land: Above, a suspension bridge in Danum Valley in Sabah, an area of lush tropical lowland forest which has been set aside as a conservation area. It includes 43,800 hectares of virgin forest with huge trees and 275 bird species on record. Picture: Liz Price
Sunday, May 4, 2008
ONE regular visitor to Danum Valley resort is Janggut the bearded pig. He has learnt that if he hangs around the kitchens and dining area he will get free food. And of course the tourists love him. Being used to humans he is not afraid of cameras and it was as much as I could do to stop him from sticking his nose on my lens which he hoped was food.
Danum Valley is about 70km west of Lahad Datu in Sabah, Malaysia. It is an area of lush tropical lowland forest which has been set aside as a conservation area and includes 43,800 hectares of virgin forest and houses some unique flora and fauna. The area has been recognised as one of the world's most complex ecosystems.
The name Danum Valley comes from the highest point, Gunung Danum, 1,093m high. The area is generally hilly but not mountainous, and lies within the upper reaches of Sabah's second largest river, the Segama and its tributaries.
Danum Valley has primary rainforest and is renowned for its rich variety of both plants and wildlife, Because it is far from human habitation, it houses many of Borneo's mammals including the rare and endangered Sumatran rhino, as well as elephant, clouded leopard, Bornean gibbon, and leaf monkey. The orang utan and proboscis monkey are both found only in Borneo.
Despite the tourist area around the Borneo Rainforest Lodge receiving a lot of human visitors, it is still possible to see wildlife. The lodge is very popular for bird watchers. Over 275 bird species having been recorded, giving Danum Valley a reputation for being one of the best places for viewing Borneo's avian inhabitants. Just by sitting on my balcony I could see several of Danum's feathered residents strutting and flying by. The lodge is built alongside the river so this attracts water birds. White egrets are common visitors.
By doing short walks around the area you stand a good chance of seeing mammals. The best time to spot animals is at night, and the lodge arranges night walks with a guide.
Deer are quite frequent visitors, and I saw sambar deer, barking deer and even the little mouse deer. These tiny deer feature prominently in Malay folklore. On the second night we spotted one rusa deer with her baby. That was when I envied the tourists who had expensive cameras and could take good night photos.
Walking along the trails at night we saw several lizards, some frogs and bush crickets. The frogs were easy to spot by the pond, as some were conveniently sitting on leaves. And for the first time ever I saw a sleeping bird, standing on the branch of a tree, sheltering under a leaf. Probably the guide knew it was there as he found it quite easily.
On my second night, I joined one of the night drives. Expert guides using a good spotlight scan the bushes and trees to see what is there. We were in luck as we saw two marbled cats. Even though the guide was spotlighting them, it was difficult at first to see them high in the branches of their trees. They resemble a small version of the clouded leopard, and are mainly arboreal and nocturnal.
Other animals regularly seen are the civets and squirrels. The best place to see the Malay civets is on the drive in to the lodge. From the main road, it's 77km along a rough road to reach the lodge.
Other activities include trekking to the "coffin caves" up on the hill behind the lodge. These are Kadazan-Dusun burial sites. In the early morning the jungle is still covered in mist.
For a less steep walk, choose some of the jungle trails and over the suspension bridges. It was on one of these trails that I saw some elephants' footprints. The Borneo Elephant or Borneo Pygmy Elephant were recently found to be a subspecies of the Asian Elephant.
We were having breakfast one morning when one of the photographers came in to say there was an adult male orang utan not far away. So we hurriedly set off and were in luck as the orang utan was in a tree right by the track. It was having its own breakfast, eating the bark off the young tree. After a while it nonchantly descended the tree and glanced at us and then moved onto another tree hidden in the shrub. I was really excited to see this creature as it was the first time I've seen a truly wild orang utan. I've seen them in various sanctuaries and rehabilitation places in Malaysia and Indonesia, but this one was totally wild.
The canopy walkway is worth doing as it provides a bird's eye view of the tree tops, suspended 27m from the ground. The walkway is 107m long. You can go tubing on the river, or relax in a natural jacuzzi pool in the river. This is a great way to soak away the sweat from trekking and to ease any aches and pains.
The Brunei Times
Danum Valley is about 70km west of Lahad Datu in Sabah, Malaysia. It is an area of lush tropical lowland forest which has been set aside as a conservation area and includes 43,800 hectares of virgin forest and houses some unique flora and fauna. The area has been recognised as one of the world's most complex ecosystems.
The name Danum Valley comes from the highest point, Gunung Danum, 1,093m high. The area is generally hilly but not mountainous, and lies within the upper reaches of Sabah's second largest river, the Segama and its tributaries.
Danum Valley has primary rainforest and is renowned for its rich variety of both plants and wildlife, Because it is far from human habitation, it houses many of Borneo's mammals including the rare and endangered Sumatran rhino, as well as elephant, clouded leopard, Bornean gibbon, and leaf monkey. The orang utan and proboscis monkey are both found only in Borneo.
Despite the tourist area around the Borneo Rainforest Lodge receiving a lot of human visitors, it is still possible to see wildlife. The lodge is very popular for bird watchers. Over 275 bird species having been recorded, giving Danum Valley a reputation for being one of the best places for viewing Borneo's avian inhabitants. Just by sitting on my balcony I could see several of Danum's feathered residents strutting and flying by. The lodge is built alongside the river so this attracts water birds. White egrets are common visitors.
By doing short walks around the area you stand a good chance of seeing mammals. The best time to spot animals is at night, and the lodge arranges night walks with a guide.
Deer are quite frequent visitors, and I saw sambar deer, barking deer and even the little mouse deer. These tiny deer feature prominently in Malay folklore. On the second night we spotted one rusa deer with her baby. That was when I envied the tourists who had expensive cameras and could take good night photos.
Walking along the trails at night we saw several lizards, some frogs and bush crickets. The frogs were easy to spot by the pond, as some were conveniently sitting on leaves. And for the first time ever I saw a sleeping bird, standing on the branch of a tree, sheltering under a leaf. Probably the guide knew it was there as he found it quite easily.
On my second night, I joined one of the night drives. Expert guides using a good spotlight scan the bushes and trees to see what is there. We were in luck as we saw two marbled cats. Even though the guide was spotlighting them, it was difficult at first to see them high in the branches of their trees. They resemble a small version of the clouded leopard, and are mainly arboreal and nocturnal.
Other animals regularly seen are the civets and squirrels. The best place to see the Malay civets is on the drive in to the lodge. From the main road, it's 77km along a rough road to reach the lodge.
Other activities include trekking to the "coffin caves" up on the hill behind the lodge. These are Kadazan-Dusun burial sites. In the early morning the jungle is still covered in mist.
For a less steep walk, choose some of the jungle trails and over the suspension bridges. It was on one of these trails that I saw some elephants' footprints. The Borneo Elephant or Borneo Pygmy Elephant were recently found to be a subspecies of the Asian Elephant.
We were having breakfast one morning when one of the photographers came in to say there was an adult male orang utan not far away. So we hurriedly set off and were in luck as the orang utan was in a tree right by the track. It was having its own breakfast, eating the bark off the young tree. After a while it nonchantly descended the tree and glanced at us and then moved onto another tree hidden in the shrub. I was really excited to see this creature as it was the first time I've seen a truly wild orang utan. I've seen them in various sanctuaries and rehabilitation places in Malaysia and Indonesia, but this one was totally wild.
The canopy walkway is worth doing as it provides a bird's eye view of the tree tops, suspended 27m from the ground. The walkway is 107m long. You can go tubing on the river, or relax in a natural jacuzzi pool in the river. This is a great way to soak away the sweat from trekking and to ease any aches and pains.
The Brunei Times
Sunday, November 11, 2007
Maliau Basin: Scouting Out Sabah's Wildest Frontier - www.wildasia.net
After five hours on rough roads to Sabah’s Lost World, LIZ PRICE finds a biological haven hidden within cliff walls and heavy clouds and some ominous logging on its pristine perimeter.
Maliau Basin: Scouting Out Sabah’s Wildest Frontier
After five hours on rough roads to Sabah's Lost World, LIZ PRICE finds a biological haven hidden within cliff walls and heavy clouds and some ominous logging on its pristine perimeter.
[Published on Wildasia 12 Dec 2006]
Maliau Basin is certainly a stunning area, with superb scenery, flora and fauna. It is unspoilt by tourism and remains a real wilderness. Unlike Borneo Rainforest Lodge in Danum Valley, Maliau Basin caters to visitors who are prepared to rough it and do some tough trekking. Hopefully the basin will survive, as it needs protection from poachers and illegal loggers. Unfortunately the surrounding area is being heavily logged, and on the drive from the Security Gate back to Kalabakan we passed at least 50 logging trucks all heavily laden. This was quite a sad sight having just spent 5 days in the untouched “Lost World of Sabah”.
Maliau Basin was only really discovered about 20 years ago, and with its difficult access, it really does remain a lost world.
Located near Tawau in Sabah, Maliau Basin is a huge bowl covering 390 km2 of almost pristine forest, an area bigger than Singapore. The basin is surrounded by almost impenetrable cliffs, which is the reason why it was undiscovered until recently. It was first mentioned when a pilot almost flew into the cliffs in 1947. The first reconnaissance team reached the basin in 1982, which resulted in a bigger scientific expedition in 1988. Maliau Basin was originally part of a timber concession held by Yayasan Sabah, but when they realized the basin contained a unique, almost self-contained ecosystem, it was designated as a Conservation Area for scientific research and education, along with Danum Valley Conservation Area, some 60 km to the east.
Various expeditions took place in the 1990’s and in 1997 the whole Basin was gazetted as a Protection (Class I) Forest Reserve. This Reserve includes an unlogged area to the north and east outside the basin, as well as Sabah’s only fresh water lake, Linumunsut. Unfortunately logging on the western side gave easier access for poachers and gaharu wood collectors. The Maliau Basin Management Committee now manages the Conservation Area and international donors include the Danish Government and IKEA, the Swedish furniture giant.
The basin is stunning in all aspects: flora, fauna and geology. Formed mostly of sandstones and mudstones, the basin is a natural amphitheatre, almost 25 km across, and surrounded on all sides by cliffs or steep slopes, the highest reaching over 1700 metres. The Maliau River and its tributaries drain the basin, and there are at least 19 waterfalls. This might even be a world record having so many waterfalls in a relatively small area of 390 km2. Water exits the basin via a gorge and eventually flows into the Kinabatangan River to the east.
There are 12 distinct forest types, but dominated by valuable timber trees in the family Dipterocarpaceae. Ten species of these dipterocarps are listed as ‘endangered’ or ‘critically endangered’ by IUCN. The agathis is a very prominent tree. Lowland forests are rich in legumes and fruit trees as well as dipterocarps, resulting in diverse wildlife. Higher up are montane oak-chestnut-laurel forests, favoured by wild pigs and deer. A casuarina-conifer forest that is a transition zone for before heath forests higher up covers steeper slopes. The heath forest is rich in pitcher plants and orchids. At even higher elevations, stunted forests are in abundance with plenty of moss and epiphytes. Six species of pitcher plants have been recorded. And there are numerous types of orchids and rhododendrons, gingers, ant plants and even a Rafflesia.
Maliau Basin has an impressive mammal list with more than 80 species found so far, although larger mammals such as the Asian elephant and banteng (a wild ox) are only found in the lowland areas. The buffer zones of logged forests outside the basin provide an important refuge for many of the larger mammals. One of the most abundant animals of size inside the basin is the Sambar Deer, although Mouse Deer and Barking Deer can also be seen. There are bats and small cats, and the larger Leopard Cat has been recorded as well as Sun Bears. Wild Boars, who feed on fallen acorns, are common and give their name to Jalan Babi, a wide migratory pig track through the heath forest. The calls of Bornean Gibbons are heard every morning; and other common primates include the Red Leaf Monkey and Grey Leaf Monkey.
The Conservation Area is also rich in birds. There are 8 Hornbill species, 9 Barbets, 8 Kingfishers and 3 Pheasants. Bird diversity is greatest within the lowland dipterocarp forests. The frog fauna of the basin is quite high, although snakes are seldom seen. The rivers of the basin are generally poor in fauna, mostly due to the acid waters flowing from the basin, as well as the physical barriers presented by the waterfalls. The most spectacular waterfall is the seven tier Maliau Falls. At present, tourists only get to see three of them: Maliau, Giluk and Takob Akob. Some of the rivers are covered with frothy foam from the saponins and tannins, and the water is a clear reddish brown colour.
Most tourists will visit the Basin on a package tour, of generally 5d/4n. I went with Borneo Nature Tours. From Tawau it is a 4-4.5 hour drive to the Maliau Security Gate, half of this journey is on unsealed road. From the security gate it is a further 20 km to Agathis Camp. From here you will do a circuit, staying in the Camel Trophy Camp and either Ginseng or Lobah Camp. These camps vary from rough shelters to purpose built buildings with shower and toilet facilities and generators for lighting etc. Be prepared for some tough trekking, with many steep ascents and descents. Agathis Camp is located at 511m and Camel Trophy at 945m.
© Liz Price - article may only be republished with the author's permission.
After five hours on rough roads to Sabah's Lost World, LIZ PRICE finds a biological haven hidden within cliff walls and heavy clouds and some ominous logging on its pristine perimeter.
[Published on Wildasia 12 Dec 2006]
Maliau Basin is certainly a stunning area, with superb scenery, flora and fauna. It is unspoilt by tourism and remains a real wilderness. Unlike Borneo Rainforest Lodge in Danum Valley, Maliau Basin caters to visitors who are prepared to rough it and do some tough trekking. Hopefully the basin will survive, as it needs protection from poachers and illegal loggers. Unfortunately the surrounding area is being heavily logged, and on the drive from the Security Gate back to Kalabakan we passed at least 50 logging trucks all heavily laden. This was quite a sad sight having just spent 5 days in the untouched “Lost World of Sabah”.
Maliau Basin was only really discovered about 20 years ago, and with its difficult access, it really does remain a lost world.
Located near Tawau in Sabah, Maliau Basin is a huge bowl covering 390 km2 of almost pristine forest, an area bigger than Singapore. The basin is surrounded by almost impenetrable cliffs, which is the reason why it was undiscovered until recently. It was first mentioned when a pilot almost flew into the cliffs in 1947. The first reconnaissance team reached the basin in 1982, which resulted in a bigger scientific expedition in 1988. Maliau Basin was originally part of a timber concession held by Yayasan Sabah, but when they realized the basin contained a unique, almost self-contained ecosystem, it was designated as a Conservation Area for scientific research and education, along with Danum Valley Conservation Area, some 60 km to the east.
Various expeditions took place in the 1990’s and in 1997 the whole Basin was gazetted as a Protection (Class I) Forest Reserve. This Reserve includes an unlogged area to the north and east outside the basin, as well as Sabah’s only fresh water lake, Linumunsut. Unfortunately logging on the western side gave easier access for poachers and gaharu wood collectors. The Maliau Basin Management Committee now manages the Conservation Area and international donors include the Danish Government and IKEA, the Swedish furniture giant.
The basin is stunning in all aspects: flora, fauna and geology. Formed mostly of sandstones and mudstones, the basin is a natural amphitheatre, almost 25 km across, and surrounded on all sides by cliffs or steep slopes, the highest reaching over 1700 metres. The Maliau River and its tributaries drain the basin, and there are at least 19 waterfalls. This might even be a world record having so many waterfalls in a relatively small area of 390 km2. Water exits the basin via a gorge and eventually flows into the Kinabatangan River to the east.
There are 12 distinct forest types, but dominated by valuable timber trees in the family Dipterocarpaceae. Ten species of these dipterocarps are listed as ‘endangered’ or ‘critically endangered’ by IUCN. The agathis is a very prominent tree. Lowland forests are rich in legumes and fruit trees as well as dipterocarps, resulting in diverse wildlife. Higher up are montane oak-chestnut-laurel forests, favoured by wild pigs and deer. A casuarina-conifer forest that is a transition zone for before heath forests higher up covers steeper slopes. The heath forest is rich in pitcher plants and orchids. At even higher elevations, stunted forests are in abundance with plenty of moss and epiphytes. Six species of pitcher plants have been recorded. And there are numerous types of orchids and rhododendrons, gingers, ant plants and even a Rafflesia.
Maliau Basin has an impressive mammal list with more than 80 species found so far, although larger mammals such as the Asian elephant and banteng (a wild ox) are only found in the lowland areas. The buffer zones of logged forests outside the basin provide an important refuge for many of the larger mammals. One of the most abundant animals of size inside the basin is the Sambar Deer, although Mouse Deer and Barking Deer can also be seen. There are bats and small cats, and the larger Leopard Cat has been recorded as well as Sun Bears. Wild Boars, who feed on fallen acorns, are common and give their name to Jalan Babi, a wide migratory pig track through the heath forest. The calls of Bornean Gibbons are heard every morning; and other common primates include the Red Leaf Monkey and Grey Leaf Monkey.
The Conservation Area is also rich in birds. There are 8 Hornbill species, 9 Barbets, 8 Kingfishers and 3 Pheasants. Bird diversity is greatest within the lowland dipterocarp forests. The frog fauna of the basin is quite high, although snakes are seldom seen. The rivers of the basin are generally poor in fauna, mostly due to the acid waters flowing from the basin, as well as the physical barriers presented by the waterfalls. The most spectacular waterfall is the seven tier Maliau Falls. At present, tourists only get to see three of them: Maliau, Giluk and Takob Akob. Some of the rivers are covered with frothy foam from the saponins and tannins, and the water is a clear reddish brown colour.
Most tourists will visit the Basin on a package tour, of generally 5d/4n. I went with Borneo Nature Tours. From Tawau it is a 4-4.5 hour drive to the Maliau Security Gate, half of this journey is on unsealed road. From the security gate it is a further 20 km to Agathis Camp. From here you will do a circuit, staying in the Camel Trophy Camp and either Ginseng or Lobah Camp. These camps vary from rough shelters to purpose built buildings with shower and toilet facilities and generators for lighting etc. Be prepared for some tough trekking, with many steep ascents and descents. Agathis Camp is located at 511m and Camel Trophy at 945m.
© Liz Price - article may only be republished with the author's permission.
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Sandakan, Sabah (BT)
Published on The Brunei Times
Sandakan, colonial capital of Sabah
Urban and jungle: Founded in 1879 by Resident William Pryer, Sandakan prospered, especially in the heyday of timber boom, when it was said to have the world's greatest concentration of millionaires. Picture: www.malaysiasite.nl
Liz Price
SANDAKAN
Saturday, October 20, 2007
THE directions on the tourist leaflet said "go up the stairs with the 100 steps". What it didn't mention was the long ascending slope that followed all the steps, gently climbing to the top of the hill. Luckily it was a shady walk, and quite pretty with the lush vegetation. It was a peaceful retreat from the bustling town below. However, it is a bit unfair to call Sandakan bustling, as it is actually relatively quiet as towns go.
Sandakan on the east coast of Sabah is the launching pad for eco-tourist destinations such as Sepilok orang utan sanctuary, Kinabatangan River and Danum Valley, Gomantong caves, Turtle Islands National Park etc. It is a small compact town, consisting of only about three blocks by four so it is impossible to get lost.
Armed with the Sandakan Heritage Trail leaflet, I set off on a walking tour of the town. First stop was the 100-year-old town mosque, Masjid Jamek, perched on a small hill overlooking the town.
Next stop was the William Pryer memorial. He was an Englishman who founded Sandakan in 1879. He served as the first Resident of the East Coast after the initial settlement burnt down. For history buffs, Sandakan was made the capital of British North Borneo (the pre-independence name for Sabah) in 1884. The British North Borneo Company ruled Sabah from 1881 to 1946. Sandakan remained the capital until the Japanese invasion and subsequent Allied bombing in 1945 which virtually destroyed the town. One year later the capital was moved to Jessleton, now called Kota Kinabalu.
Even earlier than that, Sandakan was ruled by the Sultan of Sulu from the Philippines in the 18th century. An Austrian acquired the lease from the Sultan in 1878, this was later sold to Alfred Dent a Hong Kong base publisher, and then William Pryer appeared on the scene. Sandakan prospered, especially in the heyday of timber boom, when it was said to have the world's greatest concentration of millionaires. This is probably an exaggeration, but the region has always been renown for luxury goods such as sea cucumbers and birds' nests.
Today Sandakan is a commercial centre at the entrance of a beautiful island studded bay. The docks and wharves are particularly busy as boats unload fish and other produce, and take away rattan, bird's nests, timber, rubber, copra and palm oil. Strolling around town, I kept forgetting where I was as I heard a variety of languages such as Filipino and Indonesian, as well as the normal variety of Malaysian languages. It was quite a cultural awakening and pleasant as no one hassled me, and people were friendly without being a nuisance.
There are three small bus stations all within a stone's throw of each other. Taxis are easily available, they are parked on all street corners, and I found the drivers to be quite polite and not at all pushy in wanting your custom. Passenger ferries shuttle back and forth to Zamboanga in the Philippines.
But I digress from my walk. From Pryer's monument I followed the signs and numbers painted on the ground and found myself at the bottom of the "100 steps". It was worth the climb as from the top are good views over the town and bay. Sandakan nestles between the waterfront and the steep escarpment which I was just climbing. At the top I detoured to see the huge cemetery. I assumed it was a Chinese cemetery, but the leaflet said it was Japanese.
I then headed for the English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated in the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum. From 10 am till midnight you can enjoy food and drinks immersed in tranquil surroundings and enjoying the spectacular views over the bay. You can even try your hand at croquet. Dating back to the 1800's the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. Just next door is the Agnes Keith House. This is a replica of the house used by the American authoress who lived there with her family from 1934-1942. It is here where she wrote her famous book The Land Below the Wind. She also wrote a couple of other books on their experiences in Borneo.
The trail then descends downhill and leads to a small Goddess of Mercy temple, and onto St Michael's and All Angels church. This quaint stone church is one of the few stone buildings in East Malaysia, built in the 19th century. Going further downhill brings you to the town padang and the oldest temple, Sam Sing Kung. It was constructed in 1885 for the Chinese from Guangdong province. Historical artifacts and plaques contain a wealth of information on the early history of Sandakan.
Next item on the itinerary was lunch. Sandakan abounds in eating places and bakeries, and caters for all palates: there are plenty of halal restaurants, as well as Chinese ones and seafood places. Fruits seemed cheaper and fresher than in KL, so I binged on rambutans and the like, all in season.
After a good meal I boarded a local bus for Buli Sim Sim. This is a picturesque stilt village, where the Malay fishermen live, just 3km east of the town. From the main mosque at Sim Sim you get a good view over the village. I walked along the wooden bridges and plankwalks, admiring the ornate houses and was surprised to see several small sundry shops. At one point I got out my camera to take a photo of some kids and they screamed so loudly with their delight that lots more kids came running to join in the fun, whilst the adults all appeared from the houses to see what on earth was going on. I guess they don't see too many mat sallehs wandering around their village.
Tourists tend not to linger in Sandakan as they are all on route to the eco-destinations. The surrounding area is a haven for wildlife lovers. The closest and best known attraction is Sepilok orang utan sanctuary, about 25km from Sandakan.
Turtle Islands National Park is an ideal place to relax and watch rare turtles laying their eggs. The Sungai Kinabatangan and Danum Valley Conservation Area are great places for general nature lovers, providing a good place to spot animals as they go about its daily life. There are various tour companies based in Sandakan who run trips to these places. Finally there are the Gomantong Caves, but that is another story.
The Brunei Times
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/life/2007/10/20/sandakan_colonial_capital_of_sabah
Sandakan, colonial capital of Sabah
Urban and jungle: Founded in 1879 by Resident William Pryer, Sandakan prospered, especially in the heyday of timber boom, when it was said to have the world's greatest concentration of millionaires. Picture: www.malaysiasite.nl
Liz Price
SANDAKAN
Saturday, October 20, 2007
THE directions on the tourist leaflet said "go up the stairs with the 100 steps". What it didn't mention was the long ascending slope that followed all the steps, gently climbing to the top of the hill. Luckily it was a shady walk, and quite pretty with the lush vegetation. It was a peaceful retreat from the bustling town below. However, it is a bit unfair to call Sandakan bustling, as it is actually relatively quiet as towns go.
Sandakan on the east coast of Sabah is the launching pad for eco-tourist destinations such as Sepilok orang utan sanctuary, Kinabatangan River and Danum Valley, Gomantong caves, Turtle Islands National Park etc. It is a small compact town, consisting of only about three blocks by four so it is impossible to get lost.
Armed with the Sandakan Heritage Trail leaflet, I set off on a walking tour of the town. First stop was the 100-year-old town mosque, Masjid Jamek, perched on a small hill overlooking the town.
Next stop was the William Pryer memorial. He was an Englishman who founded Sandakan in 1879. He served as the first Resident of the East Coast after the initial settlement burnt down. For history buffs, Sandakan was made the capital of British North Borneo (the pre-independence name for Sabah) in 1884. The British North Borneo Company ruled Sabah from 1881 to 1946. Sandakan remained the capital until the Japanese invasion and subsequent Allied bombing in 1945 which virtually destroyed the town. One year later the capital was moved to Jessleton, now called Kota Kinabalu.
Even earlier than that, Sandakan was ruled by the Sultan of Sulu from the Philippines in the 18th century. An Austrian acquired the lease from the Sultan in 1878, this was later sold to Alfred Dent a Hong Kong base publisher, and then William Pryer appeared on the scene. Sandakan prospered, especially in the heyday of timber boom, when it was said to have the world's greatest concentration of millionaires. This is probably an exaggeration, but the region has always been renown for luxury goods such as sea cucumbers and birds' nests.
Today Sandakan is a commercial centre at the entrance of a beautiful island studded bay. The docks and wharves are particularly busy as boats unload fish and other produce, and take away rattan, bird's nests, timber, rubber, copra and palm oil. Strolling around town, I kept forgetting where I was as I heard a variety of languages such as Filipino and Indonesian, as well as the normal variety of Malaysian languages. It was quite a cultural awakening and pleasant as no one hassled me, and people were friendly without being a nuisance.
There are three small bus stations all within a stone's throw of each other. Taxis are easily available, they are parked on all street corners, and I found the drivers to be quite polite and not at all pushy in wanting your custom. Passenger ferries shuttle back and forth to Zamboanga in the Philippines.
But I digress from my walk. From Pryer's monument I followed the signs and numbers painted on the ground and found myself at the bottom of the "100 steps". It was worth the climb as from the top are good views over the town and bay. Sandakan nestles between the waterfront and the steep escarpment which I was just climbing. At the top I detoured to see the huge cemetery. I assumed it was a Chinese cemetery, but the leaflet said it was Japanese.
I then headed for the English Tea House and Restaurant. This is a renovated colonial house situated in the grounds of the Agnes Keith Museum. From 10 am till midnight you can enjoy food and drinks immersed in tranquil surroundings and enjoying the spectacular views over the bay. You can even try your hand at croquet. Dating back to the 1800's the sport of English croquet was an extremely popular lawn game, which reached Sandakan in 1870. Just next door is the Agnes Keith House. This is a replica of the house used by the American authoress who lived there with her family from 1934-1942. It is here where she wrote her famous book The Land Below the Wind. She also wrote a couple of other books on their experiences in Borneo.
The trail then descends downhill and leads to a small Goddess of Mercy temple, and onto St Michael's and All Angels church. This quaint stone church is one of the few stone buildings in East Malaysia, built in the 19th century. Going further downhill brings you to the town padang and the oldest temple, Sam Sing Kung. It was constructed in 1885 for the Chinese from Guangdong province. Historical artifacts and plaques contain a wealth of information on the early history of Sandakan.
Next item on the itinerary was lunch. Sandakan abounds in eating places and bakeries, and caters for all palates: there are plenty of halal restaurants, as well as Chinese ones and seafood places. Fruits seemed cheaper and fresher than in KL, so I binged on rambutans and the like, all in season.
After a good meal I boarded a local bus for Buli Sim Sim. This is a picturesque stilt village, where the Malay fishermen live, just 3km east of the town. From the main mosque at Sim Sim you get a good view over the village. I walked along the wooden bridges and plankwalks, admiring the ornate houses and was surprised to see several small sundry shops. At one point I got out my camera to take a photo of some kids and they screamed so loudly with their delight that lots more kids came running to join in the fun, whilst the adults all appeared from the houses to see what on earth was going on. I guess they don't see too many mat sallehs wandering around their village.
Tourists tend not to linger in Sandakan as they are all on route to the eco-destinations. The surrounding area is a haven for wildlife lovers. The closest and best known attraction is Sepilok orang utan sanctuary, about 25km from Sandakan.
Turtle Islands National Park is an ideal place to relax and watch rare turtles laying their eggs. The Sungai Kinabatangan and Danum Valley Conservation Area are great places for general nature lovers, providing a good place to spot animals as they go about its daily life. There are various tour companies based in Sandakan who run trips to these places. Finally there are the Gomantong Caves, but that is another story.
The Brunei Times
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/life/2007/10/20/sandakan_colonial_capital_of_sabah
Kinabatangan elephants - Brunei Times
Published on The Brunei Times
Gently go these giants Liz Price
KINABATANGAN, SABAH
Friday, August 31, 2007
AS THE boat approached the riverbank I could see three grey boulders on top of the embankment. A large white egret flew by and distracted me, but out of the corner of my eye I saw one of the boulders moving.
Then it developed ears and a trunk and I realised I was looking at an elephant. My first sighting of wild elephants in Sabah!
From where we were sitting at water level, I could still only make out the backs of these pachyderms and I was trying to zoom in with my camera when Marina, our guide, said the boatman would take us up the bank for a closer look. I thought she was joking, but as the boatman jumped out of the boat, I hastily grabbed my camera and followed him.
It was quite a steep climb and there were deep holes hidden by the long grass. I was oblivious to the ants and sharp grass in my haste to get to the top, as I was convinced the elephants would move off due to the racket we were making.
At the top I was astounded to see not just three elephants, but a whole herd. It was a group of adults with their young I found it difficult to count the exact number as the smaller ones were hidden by the bulky parents, but I reckon there were about 12 to 15 creatures here.
They didn't seem too concerned by our presence and continued to feed on the long grass although a couple of adults were trumpeting for a while, which concerned the rest of the group who had elected to stay in the boats.
I took photos in quick succession expecting the animals to move off, but they stayed put. When I realised they were here to stay, I looked round and saw a smaller group at the far end of the grassy meadow, and yet another group walking through the nearby woods.
It all seemed a bit surreal. I half expected to see circus tents in the background.
I have only ever seen a wild elephant once in Malaysia, and that was in the National Park, when I was alone and about two days' walk from Park HQ. At the time I was terrified and turned tail and ran, without taking a single shot, an action I since regret. So to see a whole herd at close range was just amazing.
There are only two species of elephant worldwide, the African and Asian. The African is by far the bigger of the two.
These Asian elephants in Sabah seemed surprisingly small compared to the huge creatures in South Africa. With the Asian elephants, the tusks of females and young males are rarely visible, but some large males have tusks up to one metre long. Their ears are also smaller than their African cousins.
The Kinabatangan elephants were only studied a few years ago, and now named as the Borneo Elephant or Borneo Pygmy Elephant, they are found to be a subspecies of the Asian Elephant.
The elephant is not indigenous to Borneo and no one knows for sure how it got there.
There are various theories; some say they are the descendants of tributes presented to the Sultan of Brunei. Others say they were brought to Brunei by the British Borneo Company to help with the logging activities, or maybe they were introduced earlier, descending from elephants imported in the 16th to 18th centuries.
Records show the elephants have been there for at least a century, that is before Europeans settled in Sabah and well before commercial logging really started. These elephants are remarkably placid and almost tame, which suggests they could have descended from a domestic collection.
But however they got to Borneo, they are surviving and there are now more elephants in Sabah than anywhere else in Malaysia.
However, they can only survive if their habitat is left intact, and they have enough territory to live in.
Sadly, it was announced earlier this month that their numbers are already dwindling. A two-year study by the World Wildlife Fund Malaysia revealed that the number of elephants in Sabah is fewer than the 1,600 animals estimated earlier.
The elephants depend on the forests in the river valleys and lowlands, but the forests are being cleared at an alarming rate to make way for plantations and logging.
The elephants have been fitted with satellite collars to locate their whereabouts. But they can only survive if their habitat remains intact.
Let's hope these Pygmy Elephants will be able to live on and flourish in the Kinabatangan.
The Brunei Times
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/features/2007/08/31/gently_go_these_giants
Gently go these giants Liz Price
KINABATANGAN, SABAH
Friday, August 31, 2007
AS THE boat approached the riverbank I could see three grey boulders on top of the embankment. A large white egret flew by and distracted me, but out of the corner of my eye I saw one of the boulders moving.
Then it developed ears and a trunk and I realised I was looking at an elephant. My first sighting of wild elephants in Sabah!
From where we were sitting at water level, I could still only make out the backs of these pachyderms and I was trying to zoom in with my camera when Marina, our guide, said the boatman would take us up the bank for a closer look. I thought she was joking, but as the boatman jumped out of the boat, I hastily grabbed my camera and followed him.
It was quite a steep climb and there were deep holes hidden by the long grass. I was oblivious to the ants and sharp grass in my haste to get to the top, as I was convinced the elephants would move off due to the racket we were making.
At the top I was astounded to see not just three elephants, but a whole herd. It was a group of adults with their young I found it difficult to count the exact number as the smaller ones were hidden by the bulky parents, but I reckon there were about 12 to 15 creatures here.
They didn't seem too concerned by our presence and continued to feed on the long grass although a couple of adults were trumpeting for a while, which concerned the rest of the group who had elected to stay in the boats.
I took photos in quick succession expecting the animals to move off, but they stayed put. When I realised they were here to stay, I looked round and saw a smaller group at the far end of the grassy meadow, and yet another group walking through the nearby woods.
It all seemed a bit surreal. I half expected to see circus tents in the background.
I have only ever seen a wild elephant once in Malaysia, and that was in the National Park, when I was alone and about two days' walk from Park HQ. At the time I was terrified and turned tail and ran, without taking a single shot, an action I since regret. So to see a whole herd at close range was just amazing.
There are only two species of elephant worldwide, the African and Asian. The African is by far the bigger of the two.
These Asian elephants in Sabah seemed surprisingly small compared to the huge creatures in South Africa. With the Asian elephants, the tusks of females and young males are rarely visible, but some large males have tusks up to one metre long. Their ears are also smaller than their African cousins.
The Kinabatangan elephants were only studied a few years ago, and now named as the Borneo Elephant or Borneo Pygmy Elephant, they are found to be a subspecies of the Asian Elephant.
The elephant is not indigenous to Borneo and no one knows for sure how it got there.
There are various theories; some say they are the descendants of tributes presented to the Sultan of Brunei. Others say they were brought to Brunei by the British Borneo Company to help with the logging activities, or maybe they were introduced earlier, descending from elephants imported in the 16th to 18th centuries.
Records show the elephants have been there for at least a century, that is before Europeans settled in Sabah and well before commercial logging really started. These elephants are remarkably placid and almost tame, which suggests they could have descended from a domestic collection.
But however they got to Borneo, they are surviving and there are now more elephants in Sabah than anywhere else in Malaysia.
However, they can only survive if their habitat is left intact, and they have enough territory to live in.
Sadly, it was announced earlier this month that their numbers are already dwindling. A two-year study by the World Wildlife Fund Malaysia revealed that the number of elephants in Sabah is fewer than the 1,600 animals estimated earlier.
The elephants depend on the forests in the river valleys and lowlands, but the forests are being cleared at an alarming rate to make way for plantations and logging.
The elephants have been fitted with satellite collars to locate their whereabouts. But they can only survive if their habitat remains intact.
Let's hope these Pygmy Elephants will be able to live on and flourish in the Kinabatangan.
The Brunei Times
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/features/2007/08/31/gently_go_these_giants
Life and learning at Sabah's Turtle Islands | The Brunei Times
Published on The Brunei Times
Life and learning at Sabah's Turtle Islands
Liz Price
Sunday, August 5, 2007
THE conversation was starting to dry up as people began to feel sleepy after a huge and satisfying dinner. We were sitting in the cafeteria waiting for our call to see the turtles.
We had no idea how long we would have to wait, but knew it could be hours before the female turtles came ashore to lay their eggs. The previous evening saw the first landing at 10.30pm, which wasn't too bad. So we were pleasantly surprised when the guide came in and called us at 8.30pm. The first female turtle had already been sighted laying her eggs.
We were at Turtle Islands 40km northeast of Sandakan on Sabah's southeast coast. Turtle Islands comprise three islands separated by coral reefs, and we were on Pulau Selingaan, the only one set up for visitors and with accommodation facilities. The islands became a turtle sanctuary in 1972.
Malaysia has four species of turtle out of the seven species remaining on earth. Two of these species come to these islands. The Green Turtles come to these islands to lay their eggs from July to December and the Hawksbill Turtles from January to June. This means these reptiles are coming to the Turtle Islands Park all year round.
Pulau Selingaan's area is 8.1 hectares, and rangers patrol the beach each night to watch for turtles coming ashore. On the night prior to our visit, 21 turtles landed and 17 of those had laid 1,369 eggs.
The itinerary is scheduled so that boats leave the Sabah Parks jetty in Sandakan 9.30am or later. It takes an hour by speedboat and on arrival at the island, guests check in and pay their conservation fee and nonflashlight camera fee. Visitors are restricted to 50 per night.
The rest of the day is free for swimming and snorkelling. It doesn't take long to walk around the small island, although it's easy to get distracted and look at the corals and crabs at low tide.
The park's exhibition hall opens at 6.30pm and has a good display on turtles and marine life, and there is also a video show about turtles. Dinner is at 7pm and after, visitors are requested to stay in the cafeteria until called to see the turtles.
As soon as we were called to go to the beach, we rushed out and it was a scramble to find our shoes and make our way in the dark to the beach. We arrived to find the turtle already more than halfway through laying.
The whole process is strictly controlled no torchlights are allowed and flash photography is banned. Therefore it is virtually impossible to get any photos of the process.
The ranger had placed a torch by the turtle's rear end, so that we could see the eggs being laid and dropping into the hole it had dug. We were not allowed to stand in front of the turtle, although it seemed unconcerned by our presence. So we crouched in a semicircle behind and watched in fascination. As each egg dropped, the ranger scooped it up and into a bucket.
Ours was a Green turtle. The average clutch size is 83-165 eggs, but our girl laid only about 40. The turtle lays three to seven clutches a season, over a period of 10-15 days.
When our turtle had finished laying, the ranger measured the length and width of the carapace she was 95cm long. She was a newcomer to these islands and was untagged, so the ranger had to tag both front flippers. As the tag was attached the turtle struggled briefly.
It is a pity we were not allowed to watch the whole process of seeing the turtle come out of the sea and ploughing her way up the beach before digging the large hole in order to lay the eggs. We were only allowed to see one mother turtle laying eggs. This is good for conservation purposes but a bit disappointing to visitors who had hoped to see more.
As soon as the ranger had placed the tags, we were told to leave and therefore couldn't see the turtle return to the sea. Instead we had to hurry to the hatchery. Here we watched the ranger bury the eggs our turtle had laid.
The hole looked quite deep and I wondered how the newly hatched turtles are able to dig their way to the surface. As the guide explained, it's not a funeral but the beginning of life. A circle of wire netting is placed around the hole to prevent any predators from getting the eggs. An identification marker is then put in place.
Half of the hatchery is open to direct sunlight while the other half is shaded by trees or a roof. This is because temperature has a direct effect on the sex of the young turtles. Higher temperatures form females, cooler ones produce males. As our guide told us, "hot chicks, cool men". The incubation period takes seven to 12 weeks.
The final programme was to see some hatchlings being released into the sea. The hatchlings or young turtles normally emerge after sundown when it is a bit cooler. They dig themselves out of the hole and make their way down to the sea. This is a hazardous journey as many predators can be waiting. I read somewhere that only one in 100 survive the journey to adulthood.
The ranger had the turtles in a plastic tray. When he released them they looked like little clockwork toys scurrying down to the water's edge and disappearing into the ocean. Most headed straight for the sea but a few were a bit disorientated and went the wrong way and needed a helping hand.
We wished them well on their hazardous journey and hoped that in about 30 years, some of the females would return to these shores to lay their own eggs. The Brunei Times
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/classification/life/travel/2007/08/05/life_and_learning_at_sabahs_turtle_islands
Life and learning at Sabah's Turtle Islands
Liz Price
Sunday, August 5, 2007
THE conversation was starting to dry up as people began to feel sleepy after a huge and satisfying dinner. We were sitting in the cafeteria waiting for our call to see the turtles.
We had no idea how long we would have to wait, but knew it could be hours before the female turtles came ashore to lay their eggs. The previous evening saw the first landing at 10.30pm, which wasn't too bad. So we were pleasantly surprised when the guide came in and called us at 8.30pm. The first female turtle had already been sighted laying her eggs.
We were at Turtle Islands 40km northeast of Sandakan on Sabah's southeast coast. Turtle Islands comprise three islands separated by coral reefs, and we were on Pulau Selingaan, the only one set up for visitors and with accommodation facilities. The islands became a turtle sanctuary in 1972.
Malaysia has four species of turtle out of the seven species remaining on earth. Two of these species come to these islands. The Green Turtles come to these islands to lay their eggs from July to December and the Hawksbill Turtles from January to June. This means these reptiles are coming to the Turtle Islands Park all year round.
Pulau Selingaan's area is 8.1 hectares, and rangers patrol the beach each night to watch for turtles coming ashore. On the night prior to our visit, 21 turtles landed and 17 of those had laid 1,369 eggs.
The itinerary is scheduled so that boats leave the Sabah Parks jetty in Sandakan 9.30am or later. It takes an hour by speedboat and on arrival at the island, guests check in and pay their conservation fee and nonflashlight camera fee. Visitors are restricted to 50 per night.
The rest of the day is free for swimming and snorkelling. It doesn't take long to walk around the small island, although it's easy to get distracted and look at the corals and crabs at low tide.
The park's exhibition hall opens at 6.30pm and has a good display on turtles and marine life, and there is also a video show about turtles. Dinner is at 7pm and after, visitors are requested to stay in the cafeteria until called to see the turtles.
As soon as we were called to go to the beach, we rushed out and it was a scramble to find our shoes and make our way in the dark to the beach. We arrived to find the turtle already more than halfway through laying.
The whole process is strictly controlled no torchlights are allowed and flash photography is banned. Therefore it is virtually impossible to get any photos of the process.
The ranger had placed a torch by the turtle's rear end, so that we could see the eggs being laid and dropping into the hole it had dug. We were not allowed to stand in front of the turtle, although it seemed unconcerned by our presence. So we crouched in a semicircle behind and watched in fascination. As each egg dropped, the ranger scooped it up and into a bucket.
Ours was a Green turtle. The average clutch size is 83-165 eggs, but our girl laid only about 40. The turtle lays three to seven clutches a season, over a period of 10-15 days.
When our turtle had finished laying, the ranger measured the length and width of the carapace she was 95cm long. She was a newcomer to these islands and was untagged, so the ranger had to tag both front flippers. As the tag was attached the turtle struggled briefly.
It is a pity we were not allowed to watch the whole process of seeing the turtle come out of the sea and ploughing her way up the beach before digging the large hole in order to lay the eggs. We were only allowed to see one mother turtle laying eggs. This is good for conservation purposes but a bit disappointing to visitors who had hoped to see more.
As soon as the ranger had placed the tags, we were told to leave and therefore couldn't see the turtle return to the sea. Instead we had to hurry to the hatchery. Here we watched the ranger bury the eggs our turtle had laid.
The hole looked quite deep and I wondered how the newly hatched turtles are able to dig their way to the surface. As the guide explained, it's not a funeral but the beginning of life. A circle of wire netting is placed around the hole to prevent any predators from getting the eggs. An identification marker is then put in place.
Half of the hatchery is open to direct sunlight while the other half is shaded by trees or a roof. This is because temperature has a direct effect on the sex of the young turtles. Higher temperatures form females, cooler ones produce males. As our guide told us, "hot chicks, cool men". The incubation period takes seven to 12 weeks.
The final programme was to see some hatchlings being released into the sea. The hatchlings or young turtles normally emerge after sundown when it is a bit cooler. They dig themselves out of the hole and make their way down to the sea. This is a hazardous journey as many predators can be waiting. I read somewhere that only one in 100 survive the journey to adulthood.
The ranger had the turtles in a plastic tray. When he released them they looked like little clockwork toys scurrying down to the water's edge and disappearing into the ocean. Most headed straight for the sea but a few were a bit disorientated and went the wrong way and needed a helping hand.
We wished them well on their hazardous journey and hoped that in about 30 years, some of the females would return to these shores to lay their own eggs. The Brunei Times
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/classification/life/travel/2007/08/05/life_and_learning_at_sabahs_turtle_islands
Saturday, November 3, 2007
Danum Valley
© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission
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