Maliau Basin: Scouting Out Sabah’s Wildest Frontier
After five hours on rough roads to Sabah's Lost World, LIZ PRICE finds a biological haven hidden within cliff walls and heavy clouds and some ominous logging on its pristine perimeter.
[Published on Wildasia 12 Dec 2006]
Maliau Basin is certainly a stunning area, with superb scenery, flora and fauna. It is unspoilt by tourism and remains a real wilderness. Unlike Borneo Rainforest Lodge in Danum Valley, Maliau Basin caters to visitors who are prepared to rough it and do some tough trekking. Hopefully the basin will survive, as it needs protection from poachers and illegal loggers. Unfortunately the surrounding area is being heavily logged, and on the drive from the Security Gate back to Kalabakan we passed at least 50 logging trucks all heavily laden. This was quite a sad sight having just spent 5 days in the untouched “Lost World of Sabah”.
Maliau Basin was only really discovered about 20 years ago, and with its difficult access, it really does remain a lost world.
Located near Tawau in Sabah, Maliau Basin is a huge bowl covering 390 km2 of almost pristine forest, an area bigger than Singapore. The basin is surrounded by almost impenetrable cliffs, which is the reason why it was undiscovered until recently. It was first mentioned when a pilot almost flew into the cliffs in 1947. The first reconnaissance team reached the basin in 1982, which resulted in a bigger scientific expedition in 1988. Maliau Basin was originally part of a timber concession held by Yayasan Sabah, but when they realized the basin contained a unique, almost self-contained ecosystem, it was designated as a Conservation Area for scientific research and education, along with Danum Valley Conservation Area, some 60 km to the east.
Various expeditions took place in the 1990’s and in 1997 the whole Basin was gazetted as a Protection (Class I) Forest Reserve. This Reserve includes an unlogged area to the north and east outside the basin, as well as Sabah’s only fresh water lake, Linumunsut. Unfortunately logging on the western side gave easier access for poachers and gaharu wood collectors. The Maliau Basin Management Committee now manages the Conservation Area and international donors include the Danish Government and IKEA, the Swedish furniture giant.
The basin is stunning in all aspects: flora, fauna and geology. Formed mostly of sandstones and mudstones, the basin is a natural amphitheatre, almost 25 km across, and surrounded on all sides by cliffs or steep slopes, the highest reaching over 1700 metres. The Maliau River and its tributaries drain the basin, and there are at least 19 waterfalls. This might even be a world record having so many waterfalls in a relatively small area of 390 km2. Water exits the basin via a gorge and eventually flows into the Kinabatangan River to the east.
There are 12 distinct forest types, but dominated by valuable timber trees in the family Dipterocarpaceae. Ten species of these dipterocarps are listed as ‘endangered’ or ‘critically endangered’ by IUCN. The agathis is a very prominent tree. Lowland forests are rich in legumes and fruit trees as well as dipterocarps, resulting in diverse wildlife. Higher up are montane oak-chestnut-laurel forests, favoured by wild pigs and deer. A casuarina-conifer forest that is a transition zone for before heath forests higher up covers steeper slopes. The heath forest is rich in pitcher plants and orchids. At even higher elevations, stunted forests are in abundance with plenty of moss and epiphytes. Six species of pitcher plants have been recorded. And there are numerous types of orchids and rhododendrons, gingers, ant plants and even a Rafflesia.
Maliau Basin has an impressive mammal list with more than 80 species found so far, although larger mammals such as the Asian elephant and banteng (a wild ox) are only found in the lowland areas. The buffer zones of logged forests outside the basin provide an important refuge for many of the larger mammals. One of the most abundant animals of size inside the basin is the Sambar Deer, although Mouse Deer and Barking Deer can also be seen. There are bats and small cats, and the larger Leopard Cat has been recorded as well as Sun Bears. Wild Boars, who feed on fallen acorns, are common and give their name to Jalan Babi, a wide migratory pig track through the heath forest. The calls of Bornean Gibbons are heard every morning; and other common primates include the Red Leaf Monkey and Grey Leaf Monkey.
The Conservation Area is also rich in birds. There are 8 Hornbill species, 9 Barbets, 8 Kingfishers and 3 Pheasants. Bird diversity is greatest within the lowland dipterocarp forests. The frog fauna of the basin is quite high, although snakes are seldom seen. The rivers of the basin are generally poor in fauna, mostly due to the acid waters flowing from the basin, as well as the physical barriers presented by the waterfalls. The most spectacular waterfall is the seven tier Maliau Falls. At present, tourists only get to see three of them: Maliau, Giluk and Takob Akob. Some of the rivers are covered with frothy foam from the saponins and tannins, and the water is a clear reddish brown colour.
Most tourists will visit the Basin on a package tour, of generally 5d/4n. I went with Borneo Nature Tours. From Tawau it is a 4-4.5 hour drive to the Maliau Security Gate, half of this journey is on unsealed road. From the security gate it is a further 20 km to Agathis Camp. From here you will do a circuit, staying in the Camel Trophy Camp and either Ginseng or Lobah Camp. These camps vary from rough shelters to purpose built buildings with shower and toilet facilities and generators for lighting etc. Be prepared for some tough trekking, with many steep ascents and descents. Agathis Camp is located at 511m and Camel Trophy at 945m.
© Liz Price - article may only be republished with the author's permission.
After five hours on rough roads to Sabah's Lost World, LIZ PRICE finds a biological haven hidden within cliff walls and heavy clouds and some ominous logging on its pristine perimeter.
[Published on Wildasia 12 Dec 2006]
Maliau Basin is certainly a stunning area, with superb scenery, flora and fauna. It is unspoilt by tourism and remains a real wilderness. Unlike Borneo Rainforest Lodge in Danum Valley, Maliau Basin caters to visitors who are prepared to rough it and do some tough trekking. Hopefully the basin will survive, as it needs protection from poachers and illegal loggers. Unfortunately the surrounding area is being heavily logged, and on the drive from the Security Gate back to Kalabakan we passed at least 50 logging trucks all heavily laden. This was quite a sad sight having just spent 5 days in the untouched “Lost World of Sabah”.
Maliau Basin was only really discovered about 20 years ago, and with its difficult access, it really does remain a lost world.
Located near Tawau in Sabah, Maliau Basin is a huge bowl covering 390 km2 of almost pristine forest, an area bigger than Singapore. The basin is surrounded by almost impenetrable cliffs, which is the reason why it was undiscovered until recently. It was first mentioned when a pilot almost flew into the cliffs in 1947. The first reconnaissance team reached the basin in 1982, which resulted in a bigger scientific expedition in 1988. Maliau Basin was originally part of a timber concession held by Yayasan Sabah, but when they realized the basin contained a unique, almost self-contained ecosystem, it was designated as a Conservation Area for scientific research and education, along with Danum Valley Conservation Area, some 60 km to the east.
Various expeditions took place in the 1990’s and in 1997 the whole Basin was gazetted as a Protection (Class I) Forest Reserve. This Reserve includes an unlogged area to the north and east outside the basin, as well as Sabah’s only fresh water lake, Linumunsut. Unfortunately logging on the western side gave easier access for poachers and gaharu wood collectors. The Maliau Basin Management Committee now manages the Conservation Area and international donors include the Danish Government and IKEA, the Swedish furniture giant.
The basin is stunning in all aspects: flora, fauna and geology. Formed mostly of sandstones and mudstones, the basin is a natural amphitheatre, almost 25 km across, and surrounded on all sides by cliffs or steep slopes, the highest reaching over 1700 metres. The Maliau River and its tributaries drain the basin, and there are at least 19 waterfalls. This might even be a world record having so many waterfalls in a relatively small area of 390 km2. Water exits the basin via a gorge and eventually flows into the Kinabatangan River to the east.
There are 12 distinct forest types, but dominated by valuable timber trees in the family Dipterocarpaceae. Ten species of these dipterocarps are listed as ‘endangered’ or ‘critically endangered’ by IUCN. The agathis is a very prominent tree. Lowland forests are rich in legumes and fruit trees as well as dipterocarps, resulting in diverse wildlife. Higher up are montane oak-chestnut-laurel forests, favoured by wild pigs and deer. A casuarina-conifer forest that is a transition zone for before heath forests higher up covers steeper slopes. The heath forest is rich in pitcher plants and orchids. At even higher elevations, stunted forests are in abundance with plenty of moss and epiphytes. Six species of pitcher plants have been recorded. And there are numerous types of orchids and rhododendrons, gingers, ant plants and even a Rafflesia.
Maliau Basin has an impressive mammal list with more than 80 species found so far, although larger mammals such as the Asian elephant and banteng (a wild ox) are only found in the lowland areas. The buffer zones of logged forests outside the basin provide an important refuge for many of the larger mammals. One of the most abundant animals of size inside the basin is the Sambar Deer, although Mouse Deer and Barking Deer can also be seen. There are bats and small cats, and the larger Leopard Cat has been recorded as well as Sun Bears. Wild Boars, who feed on fallen acorns, are common and give their name to Jalan Babi, a wide migratory pig track through the heath forest. The calls of Bornean Gibbons are heard every morning; and other common primates include the Red Leaf Monkey and Grey Leaf Monkey.
The Conservation Area is also rich in birds. There are 8 Hornbill species, 9 Barbets, 8 Kingfishers and 3 Pheasants. Bird diversity is greatest within the lowland dipterocarp forests. The frog fauna of the basin is quite high, although snakes are seldom seen. The rivers of the basin are generally poor in fauna, mostly due to the acid waters flowing from the basin, as well as the physical barriers presented by the waterfalls. The most spectacular waterfall is the seven tier Maliau Falls. At present, tourists only get to see three of them: Maliau, Giluk and Takob Akob. Some of the rivers are covered with frothy foam from the saponins and tannins, and the water is a clear reddish brown colour.
Most tourists will visit the Basin on a package tour, of generally 5d/4n. I went with Borneo Nature Tours. From Tawau it is a 4-4.5 hour drive to the Maliau Security Gate, half of this journey is on unsealed road. From the security gate it is a further 20 km to Agathis Camp. From here you will do a circuit, staying in the Camel Trophy Camp and either Ginseng or Lobah Camp. These camps vary from rough shelters to purpose built buildings with shower and toilet facilities and generators for lighting etc. Be prepared for some tough trekking, with many steep ascents and descents. Agathis Camp is located at 511m and Camel Trophy at 945m.
© Liz Price - article may only be republished with the author's permission.
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