Bug-eyed about Chiang Rae's famed tit-bits
Liz Price
Saturday, May 5, 2007
YOU know when you go on holiday and are spoilt for choice about which food to choose? Well, we had that problem. George had recommended the bamboo worms whereas Wolfgang wanted to try the cicadas, and me, well, I was unsure about the whole thing. In front of us were lots of trays containing such a variety of insects you would be forgiven for thinking you were looking at an entomological collection.
Several times on visits to countries such as Cambodia and Thailand, I have seen insects for sale in markets and at food stalls. But I've either been alone or else with a companion unwilling to try these entomological delicacies, so I never ventured into trying them.
It was only when I was recently in Chiang Rae in northern Thailand with four friends that I got an opportunity to try these morsels. One of the group, Michael, chickened out and promptly disappeared for a steak when he realised what we were about to do.
Having ascertained that the others were willing, I took the bull by the horns and went to the stall. Using one of the few Thai words I know, I said "noi" to the sales lady and pointed to all the trays in turn. She understood and filled the plate with a few of each of the insects on display. Having paid 20 baht, I took the plate to the table where my companions were waiting with a jug of beer and other snack items.
It was funny to watch everyone's reaction as each person took the smallest of the insects and no one touched the larger ones. It wasn't because they were being polite it was simply a case of no one readily volunteering to tackle the larger creatures.
In the end I grasped a large bug and gave it to Wolfgang. He pulled off the head and ate it and passed me the remaining body. I was a bit reluctant but I couldn't back out, so I gingerly bit into the body.
I have to say that it didn't really taste that bad, although it wasn't all that good, either! The crispy case seemed to contain a gooey mess inside and I quickly swallowed it, having spat out the tail end. I then took a large gulp of beer to wash it down.
The favourites were definitely the bamboo worms. Now, I know what you are saying: "You actually ate worms?"
The short answer: "Yes." The longer answer: "Yes, and they taste pretty good." They look like white maggots and when crispy fried they somehow tasted like miniature chips.
I later found out some refer to them as "jungle French fries". They can be seasoned with salt or chilli. Some people liken them to a nutty version of popcorn. They are definitely a very tasty snack to munch on with your favourite Thai beer.
Bamboo worms do actually live in the hollows of bamboo stems and are known colloquially as rod fai duan or "express trains" because of their shape. They are the caterpillars of a moth. They appear in large numbers at the end of the rainy season and come at a convenient time to supplement the villagers' incomes, filling the gap between the time of gathering forest products, in particular bamboo shoots, and the time of the rice harvest.
Good money can be made selling bamboo worms. A kilo of bamboo worms sells for 80 to 120 baht. For comparison, a kilo of oranges is about 25 baht, a kilo of rice 12-20.
I can honestly say they were the only insects that I more or less enjoyed. Maybe it was because they were the least threatening in appearance and there was no icky inside. The others I could take or leave. My friends agreed, because later after we had watched some traditional dancing, we ordered another plate of bamboo worms, and another jug of beer.
What else did we have? Well there were mole crickets, grasshoppers, silkworm pupae, crickets, scorpions and giant waterbugs. Small waterbugs are often eaten unnoticed in Thai cuisine as they are chopped and ground up and added to sauces.
Mole crickets are similar to other crickets but are probably the ugliest of the insects that people eat but this doesn't affect their taste. I was a bit apprehensive about eating the whole insect, guts and all, but I guess the deep frying renders them harmless.
Crickets are probably the most popular insects to be eaten. During the season when they come out of the ground and head into the trees to mate, young Thai boys have a fine time catching them with long sticks in their hundreds. The noise made by the crickets during this period can be deafening.
Grasshoppers and locusts are caught in nets when they are swarming. In the rural areas they would go straight into the frying pan or wok and eaten along with a glass of rice whiskey. We didn't see any scorpions, maybe they are more expensive.
In Cambodia I have seen large spiders on offer. I do actually like spiders as animals, and did feel sorry for those fried ones. The small Cambodian town of Skuon is affectionately called "Spiderville" because the locals eat these eight-legged furry friends. They are bred in holes to the north of the town. I've seen these spiders piled high on platters outside the Central Market in Phnom Penh, and although I didn't try them, I am told they are best treated like crab and eaten by cracking the body open and pulling the legs off one by one, bringing the juiciest flesh out with them.
However, watch out for the abdomen which contains some nasty tasting brown sludge which could be anything from eggs to excrement!
Surprisingly there were no cockroaches. I know people eat them. I remember reading some recipes written by a German, one included chocolate covered cockroaches. I was so fascinated that I kept the article. Apparently other insects are also eaten chocolate coated maybe as a dessert.
Eating insects is common in much of Asia. They are known to be tasty and safe, and a good source of protein. For those who really enjoy eating these insects, or want to share the treat with friends, you may be interested to know that canned cooked edible bugs are available for sale, at the Thai airport or on the Internet.
Now that gives me an idea of what to buy family and friends next Christmas. The Brunei Times
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Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/classification/life/travel/2007/05/05/bug_eyed_about_chiang_raes_famed_tit_bits
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