What is it about the Bogor Botanic Gardens that make them so world-famous? LIZ PRICE pays a visit to Indonesia's premier institution for botanical study, and discovers a beautiful Javan oasis tucked away from the heat and the madding crowds.
[published on Wildasia 8 Aug 2003]
Many readers will probably have heard of the world-famous Bogor Botanic Gardens in Java, Indonesia. This is Indonesia's first and foremost botanic garden and ranks amongst some of the most well known gardens in the world. The 87 hectares of beautifully kept trees, plants, flowers, lawns and ponds lie smack in the centre of Bogor, an expanding city of 300,000 people. The gardens border the Presidential summer palace.
Bogor is about 60 km south of Jakarta, midway between the mountains and the heat-ridden plains. It was an important hill station during Dutch times, from the 17th century. Today Bogor has almost become a suburb of Jakarta, but is a good base for nearby mountain walks. Its altitude is only 290m, but it is appreciably cooler than Jakarta. Bogor has a nickname, the "City of Rain" and probably has the highest annual rainfall in Java. The city lived up to its name the day I arrived, as it deluged, but I was lucky as there was no more rain during my visit.
The Kebun Raya (Great Garden) was officially opened in 1817 during Dutch rule, having been the inspiration of Sir Stamford Raffles. Raffles was governor of Java from 1811-1816. The gardens were originally laid out by Professor Reinhardt, a German, with assistants from the Kew Gardens in London. Reinhardt was interested in plants which were used by the Javanese for domestic and medicinal purposes. From this he developed a collection of plants and seeds from other parts of the Archipelago and the Botanic Gardens would eventually make Bogor a centre for promotion of agriculture and horticulture in Indonesia. It was from these gardens that various colonial cash crops such as tea, cassava, tobacco, and cinchona were developed by early Dutch researchers during the 19th century.
The first catalogue of plants in the Garden (914 species) was published in 1823. The second catalogue (1844) listed over 2800 species. Over the years the garden was developed, and many species were replanted according to their taxonomic families.
There are more than 15,000 species of trees and plants; these include 400 types of magnificent palms and the world's largest flower, the Rafflesia. This of course is also found in Malaysia where some 16 species are known. The plant was known to aboriginal and Malay medicine well before the 19th century when it was introduced to European scientists in 1818 by the afore-mentioned Stamford Raffles. He had seen it in Sumatra.
The gardens contain streams and lotus ponds, and straddle the Ciliwung river. There are large lawns, avenues and a tea house. An avenue of plants in the colour of the Belgian flag was planted in memory of a visit by Princess Astrid of Belgium in 1928. During the Japanese invasion in 1942, 2 Japanese took over the directorship of the Garden and the Herbarium, and the place was saved. During the Second World War the garden was neglected and sadly the giant Rafflesia died. The Dutch resumed management until Independence. In the following years, research was prevalent.
There are huge forest trees, mahogany, teaks and 56 species of Dipterocarpaceae, and notably a 125-year-old Meranti. Other areas are devoted to fruit trees, there are bamboos, gingers and other herbs and spices and plants used medicinally. The newly renovated orchid houses have a fine collection of original and cloned species. There is a small monument in memory of Olivia Raffles who died in 1814 and was buried in Batavia (a 17th century Dutch town, now part of Jakarta).
Historical uses
Teysmann, a Dutch gardener who became curator of the gardens, discovered the importance of cassava (ubi kayu) as an important food source between rice harvests. It was originally found in Batam off Sumatra, growing as a hedge. The root tuber is a highly versatile food source all over Asia.
Between 1852 and 1854 the Garden played an important role in the introduction of quinine to Java, an extract used for treating malaria. Quinine is produced from the bark of the Cinchona tree, originally from Peru. As I travelled around West Java, I saw small forests of Cinchona trees.
Other useful plants were grown for stock and cuttings were distributed all over Indonesia, especially of tobacco, Australian Eucalyptus species, maize and Liberian coffee. Research was undertaken on plant parasites and diseases affecting crops such as sugarcane. The laboratory attracted an increasing number of scientists.
There are four main walks within the Garden, as well as drivable roads. Most specimens are labelled. The main gates have statues of the Hindu god Ganesh set in the pillars. This leads to the Canarium Avenue, named after the Javanese almond tree. This produces edible nuts, the outside husks of which are made into key ring fobs and sold outside.
The garden houses probably Indonesia's only specimen of Ficus albipila, a huge strangling fig. The King tree, Koompassia excelsa, has spectacular buttress roots. Nearby is a group of statues and inscriptions, believed to be of Hindu origin. They are probably 600 years old. There is a statue of Shiva and the bull Nandi. The striking red flame tree, Delonix regia, is now found all over Indonesia but was introduced from Singapore in 1848.
The garden is an important refuge for birds, more than 50 species have been recorded. Flying foxes are abundant in one or two areas, roosting high in the tree canopies.
Apart from the many tropical plant species, it has become a well-known institution for research and conservation. The Garden is an important part of Bogor city, providing employment and a place of recreation. The garden is open every day, and is well worth a visit.
Further Information:
For more information, contact Buena Vista Travel Club
You can also read up about the natural history and conservation of Ficus albipila here.
© Liz Price
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