What's new in Krabi town

There's something new in Krabi. The crabs. I don't know if the word krabi means crabs, I always thought it was just a corruption of the name when spoken in English. However there are a lot of fiddler crabs along the river bank. Update - the word krabi means a single edged sword, and the name of the town probably comes from the limestone tower along the river which locals think looks like a sword. So it has nothing to do with crabs.

I've been to Krabi at least 8 times, maybe more, and that's not including the times I've just passed through when going north or south. My first visit was 1988, and needless to say it's changed. 2008 view -

2010 new naga stairs

naga head

2008 view

There are big changes at the beach areas such as Ao Nang and Rai Lay. That's one reason I usually stay in the town. Ao Nang is becoming more like Phuket, and has most of the big American fast food chains - burgers, pizzas, ice cream and coffee. I can't believe how many pizza places there are. But they do good business, I guess cos many Westerners can't eat rice more than once or twice a week, and like the comforts of familiar food. That's another reason I stay in Krabi town, becuase apart from the Muslim foods stalls on the road leading into Ao Nang, there are no cheap local eating places. And in town, all the cheap eating places give free drinking water with a meal.

I know there are quite a few Muslims in Krabi, but this time the Muslim influence seems stronger. More women wearing headscarves, more halal eating places, and even Walls ice cream is now halal -

The night food market in town seems to have a lot more Muslim food stalls. On the way to Krabi at the large eating place where the buses stop (Nayong) there is a separate room for halal dining. However in Krabi town the Muslims and non Muslim food stalls mix side by side, without any problem of pork products being next to a Muslim stall.

Guest houses are certainly cheap, with rooms available from 120 Bt (RM12). Normally I stay at the City Hotel, but this time I thought I would try a new guest house which has been getting lots of good reviews on Lonely Planet thorntree, and has hot water and importantly, has free wifi. They have 2 guest houses (Good Dream 1 & 2) in Krabi town. When I arrived both were full, the only room was a double which they offered for 200 Bt from 250. But the room was tiny and basic, no bigger than the 2 beds, no furniture, and was noisy from the loud music downstairs in reception. The shared bathroom was a "cupboard" under the stairs. I decided I need more comfort and went back to the City, where for 400 Bt I get a double fan room, TV with English channels, bathroom and good sized towels. Only drawback is no hot water. It now has wifi, though I couldn't get a good signal in my room and had to sit in the reception area.

It seems that many of the hotels and guest houses are empty, it's now the very end of the low season, high season starts next week, Nov-May. The 2 hotels along by the river both looked deserted. There is a brand new hotel right opposite the pier, Marina Seaview, and I was offered a room for 600 Bt (immediate drop from 800) for aircon room with hot water, TV and fridge and balcony. Only problem is the balcony faces the road and pier and night market, so I can imagine it is noisy. I like the City cos there is no traffic or street noise in the rooms.

buy your zebras here

I always overeat when I come to Thailand as I love the food, and at night I love the sticky cakes on the street stalls. Also the ice creams such as Magnum are much nicer than in Malaysia. Unfortunately just round the corner from the hotel is the Sinocha Bakery and it's so tempting to go in for a coffee and cake. An iced coffee and cake cost 50 Bt, a fraction of the price of Starbucks! Although Krabi town has lots of fast food place, there are no Western chain coffee shops.

ooks good enough to eat

coffee and cake 50 Bt

Pancake stalls have always been popular in tourist areas in Thailand. Now in Krabi the locals are really enjoying these, and many of them are Muslim stalls. The one by the City Hotel is an absolute goldmine, it only opens in the evenings and is constantly packed.

Their crispy pancakes are great, and the portions are much bigger than at all the other pancake stalls. It is basically a roti canai mix, but it is absolutely paper thin and fried really crispy then covered in condensed milk. Bad for the waistline, but who cares. I'm surprised this idea hasn't reached Malaysia.

There's a new 'walking street" on Fri-Sun evenings, where the square is closed off and there are lots of stalls surrounding a central eating area.

walking street

nice Thai girl!!

nice mosaic

The new Krabi Night Plaza isn't fully open yet -

I also noticed a few swiftlet houses in the town - would be so annoying to live next to one wth the constant sound of electronic bird calls! This is a swiflet house -

another swiftlet house

The Krabi white breasted eagle by day and by night

river view, but I don't know what this is

I've posted albums of previous visits, Manus Borarn, and Phra Nang cave, and written about Krabi cleaned up and Krabi rock climbing.

© Liz Price
No reproduction without permission