The former dictator Enver Hoxha had around 700,000 bunkers built all over the country for defence. They can be seen everywhere. Many are just for one soldier, but this one we visited, which is now lived in by a man, was meant for 7 soldiers.
Artillery bunkers -
North of Vlores is the Nartes (Narta) lagoon and a salt factory. The lagoon drains to the sea and is situated within the boundaries of the Vjosa-Narta Protected Landscape. It is an important site for birds and plants.
There are 2 islands in the lagoon, one is connected by a wooden walkway and is home to a 13th. c. monastery.
Looking back towards the monastery -
Vlore is an old capital of Albania, before the capital was moved to Tirana to be more central. The modern part of town is undergoing new developments. Sadly the palm trees are dying from a disease
We went to Flag's Square, the main plaza in Vlorë, dedicated to the Albanian Declaration of Independence. Independence Monument -
Muradie Mosque, built between 11th and 13th century -
We then went up a hill to see the view and the Baktashi temple, and then back down to the Museum of Independence, where we were filmed for Albanian TV - see separate blog. After we went to the modern esplanade for a coffee.
From Vlore we followed the coast to Orikum, where the road turns inland and goes up and over the mountains to Llogara National Park. We stopped for lunch at one of the highest points and it was cold and cloudy. Coming down the other side, the clouds lifted at times
We then spent a couple of nights in Himare (Himara). The town has an ethnic Greek community. The beach was deserted in October
The next day we went up into the mountains behind the town. We went by jeep. For most of the way to Pilur, there is a brand new road just a few weeks old.
Pilur is 700 m above sea level and sits on a bare mountain face at the start of plateau level. There are lovely views over the Riviera. It is described as the balcony over the coast. The village is apparently busy in the tourist season. The people are Greek Orthodox and date back to the 15th c. They keep animals as there is little arable land. We stopped in the village square for a coffee and sat under the old tree
That evening we were lucky enough to have a 'private' performance by one of Albania's leading polyphonic singers, Katina Beleri. See more on my blog Albania polyphony.
The next day we visited Himare Castle
From Himare we headed back south to Sarande.
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