THE STAR
Saturday December 3, 2005
Story & pictures by Liz Price
See the City of Angels from the River of Kings during a dinner cruise – the city being Bangkok, the river being the Chao Phraya.
It had been years since I went on a boat down Thailand’s longest river, and so I returned . . .
We eagerly assembled on the jetty of the Montien Riverside Hotel, as an ancient barge chugged towards us. It had rusting railings and needed a paint job. Half of our group got on board before the vessel moved out.
Surely this wasn’t the boat we were having dinner on? I was puzzled, and then I realised we were just being transferred to the cruise boat anchored in the middle of the river. Obviously, the tide was too low for the large cruiser to come to the jetty.
Once on board the Chao Phraya Princess, we all headed upstairs to sit at the tables on the open-air deck, as the barge went for the rest of the party. Then we set off upriver. I was surprised at how fast we travelled, overtaking many smaller boats.
The food is plentiful and vessel choices —such as the rice barge below — varied.
The river was very busy, all kinds of craft were going up and down. There were many huge barges laden with logs being towed by impossibly small tugs. There were picturesque old rice barges laden with rice, sand or gravel. Ferries, water-taxis and every type of small craft imaginable went by.
All these vessels formed an unforgettable panorama.
It was a welcome relief from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok’s busy roads. When the capital of Thailand was moved to Bangkok in 1782 (the beginning of the Rattanakosin period), the capital was laced with canals. The people of Bangkok first settled by the river and then spread out into the surrounding areas.
Going northwards, we passed under several bridges, each of a different construction. The first one we went under was the Taksin Bridge.
Next was the Phra Phut Yot Fa Memorial Bridge, dedicated to King Rama I, the founder of Bangkok. His monument, near the bridge, depicts him on a throne gazing at the bustling city he founded more than 220 years ago. Chinatown, and also Pahurat, the Indian quarter, lie to the east.
The most outstanding of the bridges was the illuminated Rama IX Bridge, at 3km the longest single-span cable-suspension bridge in the world. It is situated just south of our hotel and carries six lanes of expressway traffic.
We also saw lots of buildings. There are traces of the early Rattanakosin period in the architecture alongside the river. The 1880 Old Customs House near the Oriental Hotel was turned over to the harbour fire brigade when larger ships necessitated a move downriver. The French Embassy is next door. Recently restored, it is the second oldest embassy building in Bangkok.
The white ramparts of Fort Vichai Prasit can be seen in the Thon Buri area. This was an old Ayutthaya fort built in 1688. King Taksin’s Palace is here in the complex, which is now the Royal Thai Navy HQ. We also saw the Thai Maritime Navigation Company buildings.
There are magnificent temples. The first we went past was Wat Arun (the Temple of Dawn). Named after the Indian god of dawn, it is one of the most striking. Its 82m prang or tower is particularly noticeable.
The most majestic sight along the river is the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. This is the historical centre and the origin of modern Bangkok. The Thon Buri bank, across from the Grand Palace, is where some of the original communities lived. At the north end is Wat Rakhang Kositaram, which offers meditation courses for foreigners, but you need to speak Thai fairly well to study here.
The next canal entrance we passed is where the Royal Barges National Museum is located. The next district we passed was Banglamphu. Here Fort Phra Sumen, built in 1783 to fortify the old city, is located near the mouth of the Banglampoo Canal. It is one of the two remaining forts left from the early days. We went past university buildings and many modern and quite stunning apartment blocks as well as luxury hotels. These greatly contrasted with the rickety wooden buildings and ageing stone edifices.
Then dinner was served and the food was wonderful. There was such a wide selection, catering to all palates, from Thai to Japanese to Western. It was all simply delicious.
There were almost 200 people in my group, and yet the food never ran out. As each tray ran low, it was topped up.
Once everyone was sated, there was live music in the downstairs lounge. Once it got dark, we popped down for some entertainment – a female emcee was encouraging people to dance. So I had the best of both worlds, as I was able to stay in my riverside seat and sip my coffee watching the world float by and being entertained by people having fun on the dance floor.
It was a good ending to a pleasant evening. W
Travel tip
THE average cost for a dinner cruise is 70 Baht (RM7) per person. The Chao Phraya Princess Cruise lasts two hours and costs US$25 (RM95) per head.
A variation on the dinner cruise is the rice barge cruise. There are several ancient barges which have been converted into floating restaurants. The one belonging to the Montien Riverside Hotel ((02) 292 2999) is called the Montienthip.
On this luxuriously converted authentic teakwood rice barge, you can cruise along the majestic Chao Phraya travelling this historic waterway in style.
The barge is small compared to the modern dinner ships, but inside it is adorned with typical Thai décor motifs. These dinner cruises are more expensive, around 1,400++ Baht per head.
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