[From : ORTEV THAILAND]
The expedition - 25 cars covering almost 6000 km in 10 days, through 4 countries, and from sea level to 3500m, and from 34°C to –6°C.
This 4WD adventure expedition was from Bangkok, through Myanmar and into China’s Yunnan province and up to Shangri La, close to the Tibet border in the Himalayas. It was organized by Ortev in Japan and sponsored by Maxxis International. It was the first ever Asian event of its kind, and took place from 13 – 22 November 2004.
A very successful expedition. It was well planned and well organized and everything went smoothly. 15 cars from 4 countries left Bangkok. There were cars from Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore and Taiwan. Unfortunately the Taiwan car developed mechanical problems on the first day so did not continue. In China 10 cars joined the expedition, making a total of 24.
Day 1, the convoy drove from Bangkok’s Grand Palace to Chiang Rai. On day 2 they crossed into Myanmar at the Mae Sai – Tachilek border. A new road through Myanmar meant fast progress. Lunch at Kengtung, the capital of the Shan State. The Chinese border at Mongla was reached late afternoon. Again border formalities went very smoothly and the convoy entered its third country in one day. This is quite a feat, to get 14 cars across 3 international borders in one day.
10 cars from the China team joined the expedition at the border, and after a photo shoot, the convoy set off for Jinghong. Throughout the stay in China a police escort led the way. Day 3 in Jingong the cars had to go for a vehicle inspection and attach temporary Chinese registration plates. Then the expedition drove through the mountainous Xishuangbanna National Nature Reserve, past the Pu‘er tea plantations, and had a late lunch in Simao. A new highway to Kunming meant faster progress, it is a spectacular highway with many long and high bridges (including the highest bridge in the world) and dozens of tunnels.
The team reached the hotel in Kunming at midnight and had a wake up call at 4.15 am. Some people were getting tired from the constant travelling, and one car (Malaysian) decided not to continue with the expedition, electing to wait for the group to return to Kunming in a few days.
Day 4 dawned and it was 6°C. The SE Asian drivers had to learn how to use their car heaters! The highway from Kunming to Chuxiong is still being constructed and due to the rain this meant a very muddy journey. From Chuxiong to Dali the highway is completed. In Dali the cars all went for a well deserved wash, and most of the drivers put antifreeze in the radiators in preparation for the subzero temperatures of Shangri La.
After lunch there was a delay as the Malaysian service car had problems. As a result the itinerary was changed, and it was decided only to go as far as Lijiang that night, rather than all the way to Shangri La. This was actually a good decision, as it could be potentially dangerous to negotiate the narrow mountainous road from Lijiang at night, due to other vehicles on the road, and also the threat of ice. It was also a blessing for the photographers and passengers as they were able to see the stunning scenery in daylight.
This section of road was one of the most stunning of the trip. In Lijiang the team had their first view of snow capped mountains, and as they drove up the mountainous road, the impressive 5500m Jade Dragon Snow Mountain was visible for much of the way. There were few official photo stops throughout the expedition, but today there were several. The first was at some stalls selling Tibetan items, with a view overlooking the Yangxi River. The cars then descended and followed the river for a few kilometres, again stopping for photos of the river with the backdrop of snowcapped mountains and entrance to the famous Tiger Leaping Gorge.
The road then ascended through a smaller gorge and climbed up on to the plateau of Shangri La. There was an official welcome by singers and dancers in Tibetan costume at a large stupa. The team was elated to have arrived and unfurled the Maxxis banners for a photo shoot.
As they entered the town of Zhongdian there was fresh snow lying on the pavements. Zhongdian has been christened as Shangri La, taken from James Hilton’s 1933 classic “Lost Horizon”. After lunch, the expedition set off for an afternoon of sightseeing. First destination was the Napa Lake, which is actually a seasonal lake or wetlands. It is part of a nature reserve and is surrounded by a large grass meadow, important for bird watching. Several people went for a pony ride across the plateau, whilst others tried their hand at archery.
Then on to the Ganden Sumtseling Gompa, a 300-year-old Tibetan monastery with around 600 monks. It is the most important monastery in southwest China. That evening a lot of people began to feel the effects of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), also known as altitude sickness. Shangri La lies at an altitude of 3500m and as the ascent from sea level had been made in just a few days, there was no time to acclimatize. AMS affects different people at different altitudes, generally starting at 2500m. That evening there was a cultural show, but several people didn’t go, due to AMS.
As the expedition was running a day behind schedule, visits to the other sites around Shangri La had to be abandoned. Consequently only one night was spent at Shangri La, but this was actually good for those suffering from AMS as they needed to return to lower altitudes. Day 6 it was -6°C at 9am and the cars were covered in ice. Departure was delayed due to problems with one car, also the fact that the mountain road was still covered with ice. The terrain was covered with frost as the cars drove across the plateau and back down to Lijian. After lunch there was another delay before setting off for Dali. Here members were able to visit the famous Three Pagodas, San Ta Si. The tallest pagoda is 70m and was originally erected in the 9th century. It is flanked by 2 pagodas 42m high.
Day 7 was a drive from Dali to Kunming, stopping for lunch in Chuxiong. The convoy reached Kunming in the Friday evening rush hour and had slow progress getting to the new Maxxis showrooms, then on a search for fuel. That evening a few participants enjoyed a free massage after dinner whilst watching a cultural show.
Next morning the participants paid a rushed visit to the world famous Stone Forest at Shilin. After lunch with a chance for shopping, the expedition headed back to Simao, stopping for photos at the world’s highest bridge. Day 9 saw the return to Jinghong for lunch, then onto the border at Mongla. Immigration and customs were cleared quite easily and the night was spent in the casino town of Mongla.
Day 10 and the final day, the cars returned through Myanmar to Tachilek. The expedition officially ended in Mae Sai and the cars went their separate ways.
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It was a very successful expedition, well organized and with very few problems.
The convoy had covered a distance of some 2560 km from Bangkok to Shangri La in 4 ½ days, which is possibly a world record. Total distance covered was about 5500 km in 10 days, through 4 countries, and from sea level to 3500m, and from 34°C to –6°C.
The expedition was on the road for an average of 12 hours a day, but time flew. There was always something different to see, a whole variety of every changing scenery, different style architecture, varying costumes and faces of the local people. All in all a great success.
- Liz Price (29th Nov. 2004)
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