Sailing the ships of the desert
Made for the elements: Camels on the crest of a dune in Rajasthan with a sunset backdrop. Taking a camel safari is a wonderful way to visit the nooks and crannies of India's Rajasthan, the writer says, while the starry night skies will give you pause.
Liz Price
Sunday, February 24, 2008
CAMELS seem to have particularly disagreeable temperaments and show their displeasure by frequent hissing and spitting. Their breath is definitely not sweet and they burp a lot.
This is what I found out on the first day of a four-day camel trek in the desert in India. I had the option of anything from a one to 10-day trek, so decided on four days, although I did wonder if my backside and legs would survive straddled atop one of these large beasts.
I was in Jaisalmer in Rajasthan. This small town has been described as one of India's most exotic and unusual towns, likened to something out of the Arabian Nights. It lies on the edge of the Thar Desert in the west of Rajasthan near the Pakistan border.
Rajasthan, or "Land of the Kings" is a colourful place, and home to the Rajputs, a group of warrior clans. Splendid forts dominate almost all the towns, and the people provide a brilliant splash of colour. The men wear huge pastel coloured turbans and many sport fierce moustaches. The women wear long skirts with small mirrors sewn in, and compliment this with chunky jewellery.
The barren areas of the Thar Desert extend into Pakistan. Jaisalmer is a mediaeval looking town, a desert outpost, which was once an important trading post on the camel train routes between India and central Asia.
The wealthy merchants built great houses and mansions, all exquisitely carved from yellow sandstone. Old walls surround the city and from the desert the city seems to glow in a golden colour. One of the best views of the city is from the desert, and viewing this scene sitting on a camel is enchanting.
A camel safari is a great way to explore the desert and small villages in Rajasthan. The camels looked aloof as we approached, as if in disdain at this new group of tourists. We were each allocated one camel and one camel driver. The camels were made to sit so we could mount them, and I tried to get comfortable on the assortment of blankets and sacks that served as a saddle. My camel man was a youngish boy and he sat immediately behind me.
Having ridden camels in Egypt, I knew that when the camel gets up, it is always a heart stopping moment, as the camel lurches forwards and then backwards to stand on its feet.
As we headed for the desert dunes I soon got used to the slight rocking movement of the camel. The pace was slow and we could look around.
We rode for an hour and then stopped for a rest. I was surprised that when I got off the camel my legs were already stiff, my backside was numb, and it felt strange being on terra firma. The camels were happy to have a break and started grazing on nearby bushes. Known as "ships of the desert", camels provide a lifeline for the desert people as a major mode of transportation.
Camels have an amazing ability to withstand long periods without water. They are also well known for their humps. However, they do not store water in them as is commonly believed; their humps are actually a reservoir of fatty tissue. Our camels had very small humps so presumably they had little food reserves. They have tough feet so that they can endure the scorching desert sands, and their thick coat reflects sunlight.
Our next stop was lunch. As we rested under the shade of a convenient tree, the men prepared the food. We had potato curry, rice, chapatti and dhal, and it tasted good in the unpolluted desert air. Sweet chai accompanied the meal.
During the afternoon ride, we stopped at a village. Smiling children came out to welcome us. The colourful clothing of the women and their jewellery is a fantastic complement to the tall, brightly turbaned men.
Further on we stopped at a water tank where birds, camels and cows were quenching their thirst. Elsewhere we saw a few villagers wandering the desert in search of food and water for their livestock. It's a harsh existence, but almost everyone we saw gave us a friendly smile and wave.
As the sun was setting we stopped for the night. Setting up camp was a simple process, we just laid out our sleeping bags on the sand. We then sat on the sand dunes to watch the sunset.
The camels meanwhile had been hobbled and were searching for their own supper. I was amazed to see them grazing on prickly bushes, but their mouths are very tough and they are able to chew thorny desert plants. Later they were each given a sack of dried grass to feed on.
The night sky was amazing. I saw more stars than I've ever seen anywhere else. We started counting shooting stars and making a wish when we saw one. It made us realise how much light pollution there is in towns and cities where it is very difficult to see the night sky.
It also turned very chilly as the evening progressed and we huddled closer to the camp fire. One of the camel drivers started to sing, and the simple melody of the folk tune sounded so good under the starry night sky. We were soon each lost in our own thoughts, absorbing the peace of this unique place.
When it got colder we got into our sleeping bags and prepared to sleep. We were all thankful of the fire and moved closer to it, as despite our warm bags, the temperature of the night air really dropped.
The next morning the sun rising over the sand dunes awoke us and we welcomed the new day. After a leisurely breakfast the camels were prepared for the day's ride. In their typical grumpy way, they hissed and spat, but as they continued to do this throughout the day, I realised it is just part of their character.
Despite their bad temperament, camels have a certain charm. I loved their long eyelashes and huge brown eyes. The lashes along with ear hairs and sealable nostrils form an effective barrier against sand.
During the day we stopped at more villages, and visited a small temple dedicated to a Hindu goddess. At one village the locals offered us a cup of tea, which was very welcome. Each day was a repeat of the previous one, but at no time did I get bored, as there was always something to look at, and I was content absorbing the charm of the desert.
The camel safari in the Thar Desert is one which I won't forget. The harshness of the sandy desert was relieved by shrubs and bushes, and some amazing sand dunes. I found it fascinating looking at the ripples sculptured by the wind in the sand.
The friendliness of the villagers made us feel welcome, and camping under a blanket of stars was particularly magical.
The Brunei Times
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Source URL:
http://www.bt.com.bn/en/en/travel/2008/02/24/sailing_the_ships_of_the_desert
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See photos on the camel safari.
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