Saturday April 16, 2005
Refreshing hot springs in Perak
By Liz Price
Pictures by Liz Price & Christina Koh
LIZ PRICE believes that she has discovered the best hot spring in the Peninsula. Read on to find out what she says about the Sg Klah Hot Springs.
I will let you in on a secret – I recently discovered the best hot spring in the Peninsula. I came across it by chance, having seen a sign on an overhead bridge across the North-South Expressway near Behrang, Perak.
Said Saad says the green algae is good for your skin.
All it said was “Sg Klah Hot Springs”, and it was only 10km away.
Many hot spring destinations are in a dilapitated state and an eye sore. But the signs here were all new, so I thought it worth checking out. The road was well signposted, leading through Sg Kelah village and on through Felda oil palm plantations.
I arrived on a mid-week in the late afternoon and found the place virtually devoid of visitors, but there were a lot of staff maintaining the grounds. The garden was well landscaped, with a path leading through an attractive display of labelled plants.
I walked to the main pool and it looked so beautiful I wondered if it was really used for swimming. The pool and surroundings were so clean. There wasn’t a ripple on the water and it all looked so tranquil. Also, there was no smell of sulphur. I wondered if I was in the right place. Then one Encik Said Saad came up and spoke to me, and kindly offered to give me a guided tour.
First, he told me to paddle my feet in the water while he switched on the water cascade. I took off my shoes and immersed my tired feet in the pool. It was lovely. The water temperature was about 44°C. Within a few minutes, the artificial waterfalls at the head of the pool kicked into action and water cascaded down the rocks and into the pool. The water flowed across the pool and drained into a small stream. I was quite happy absorbing the atmosphere and relaxing my feet when Said told me to follow him.
We went to the egg-boiling area. This was one of the sources of the hot water, where the water bubbles up from the ground at a temperature of 100°C-102°C. There was a thermometer and sensor in place. A basket was provided for those wishing to boil eggs.
I was struck by the fact that there was no smell of sulphur. Many hot springs I have visited, particularly those in Indonesia, reek of sulphur, having come from volcanoes. The egg-boiling pool had a lot of green algae coating the rocks.
A surreal sight.
Said gathered some and covered my hands and arms with it. I was a bit perturbed being covered in bright green gunge, but Said explained that I should let it dry as it is good for the skin. And indeed, when I washed it off later, my skin did felt softer. There was another pool where the algae was white and this was supposed to be good for the stomach.
Said told me that the springs emerged from some 500 places within the complex. The spring water is channelled into the pool, and mixed with cold water. Just downstream of the main pool is another spring, covered with boards for safety. The water is pumped up to the top of an artificial cascade where it is then allowed to flow down, forming clouds of steam as the hot water meets the cooler air.
Next we went to the spa pools – individual “bath areas” designed for families or groups. Each was a private complex within a walled enclosure and consisted of a small pool or Jacuzzi fringed by rocks and set in the midst of a small garden.
There were also a table and chairs, as well as changing rooms. The water for the spa is pumped from the main pool and is about 38°C-40°C. There are currently four klah or family baths, and they are so popular that two more are being constructed.
Said explained that during weekends and holidays, the complex got crowded with visitors, especially at night – it would stay open until 10pm. The park was first opened in December 2003. Now people come from Kuala Lumpur and even Penang to enjoy the place.
Facilities include a large cafeteria offering cheap food and drinks, souvenir shop, surau and stalls selling burgers and drinks. The toilet and shower block is being expanded to cater to the large number of visitors at weekends. And a new car park is being planned.
At weekends, you can enjoy a traditional massage to remove aches and stiffness.
Visitors enjoying the warm water.
I took advantage of the water reflexology course, where I walked barefoot along a long area of stones covered with hot water. Said was surprised that I managed it with little discomfort, so he thought I was healthy!
As we headed for the boardwalk, we went past an impressive Ara tree. Said pointed out lots of trees and shrubs which had medicinal uses. I saw a Sungkai tree – from which the place name originated. The boardwalk led us to a small stream which flowed from the hot springs. It got hotter as we walked and came to many small springs. You could hear the water bubbling up from the ground. Signboards revealed the water temperature to be 60°C-102°C. From a platform built over the springs, one could feel the heat from the water. Gentle clouds of steam rose from the water. It looked surreal – a stream covered in clouds of steam and surrounded by green vegetation. Apparently it is even more beautiful at night. Floodlights lit up the area.
I liked the way the surroundings had been left in their natural state. The rocks in the pools were natural and the riverbed had the characteristic look of green and white crusty rocks of natural springs.
Communists used to stay in this area until the mid-1940s, but they left when the British arrived. It must have been a nice place to escape from war, and a good site to set up camp, with a free supply of hot running water. In the distance were the forested hills of the Titiwangsa Range.
Sungai Klah Hot Springs Park is an ideal place to relax and de-stress. The surroundings are tranquil, the gardens are immaculate and the water is beautiful. The spa pools are definitely worth using. Go and see for yourself. I am sure you won’t be disappointed. W
Getting there
The Sungai Klah Hot Springs Park in Perak is located 10km south of Sungkai. The turn-off is just south of the Sungkai toll exit on the North-South highway. Access to the park is signposted, about 10km from the main road.
Opening hours: 7am-10pm daily
Admission:
Weekday – RM3/adult & RM1.50/child
Weekend, holidays & night (7pm-10pm) – RM5/adult & RM1.50/child
Family spa pool costs RM25 an hour. o For reservations, call (05) 438 8687.
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